tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44098316843877310422024-03-19T04:46:03.854-04:00Mike Likes BurgersI like burgers. I hope you like reading about them.Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-30800585903886399322012-12-17T09:54:00.000-05:002012-12-17T09:54:12.397-05:00Damn you, Moxie.<a href="http://www.moxies.ca/" target="_blank">Moxie's</a>.<br />
<br />
When you visit the website for Moxie's and you click on "About Us," the following schtick literally starts off the description: "<i>Moxie's Grill & Bar operates 63 premium casual restaurants in seven provinces with yearly system sales over $200 million.</i>" If you're a construction worker, oncologist, folk museologist, executive coach, etc., you probably have no idea how "system sales" differs from just sales. <br />
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Moxie's mantra? Starts off: "<i>What makes Moxie's unique and different from others? At Moxie's we
believe our most strategic competitive advantage is the company's
culture.</i>" That's pretty cool. It's straight out of a marketing textbook and completely alienates the diner, but I get it. This is an attractive statement for hooking potential franchisees who will take this Calgary-based premium casual chain eatery across Canada. If anyone from Moxie's reads this blog post, please check out <a href="http://www.milestonesrestaurants.com/" target="_blank">Milestone's</a> or McDonald's website to learn how to design for a good first impression. Pro tip: tuck the corporate stuff behind the diner's site.<br />
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The point I'm trying to make is that Moxie's is a restaurant run by those who spin and count beans, and unabashedly so. These are not food people running the show, but most Canadians are not likely to care. The urban surfer of the blogosphere might shake their heads in bewilderment, but the growth of so-called premium casual eateries makes sense. I lived in England for a couple of years and these eateries are everywhere; hell, even most pubs are chains. You have chain tapas joints and chain Parisian-style bistros and chains that are called "Pizza Express" which are surprisingly more upmarket than the name suggests.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvKHCXYZMk2WfLVztdeEnN28Z5lxUOxMO6g3AN9X_78-vOht9yXlZGI2iAn-nLpiHQ7Xzh_ni8k7qD-tGdLob5xAbs2_4lMpEFJkFBjDLNSoztj8P5-fMOcVzLTGwnRblbqt8Sqw0ba8J/s1600/20121116_120349_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvKHCXYZMk2WfLVztdeEnN28Z5lxUOxMO6g3AN9X_78-vOht9yXlZGI2iAn-nLpiHQ7Xzh_ni8k7qD-tGdLob5xAbs2_4lMpEFJkFBjDLNSoztj8P5-fMOcVzLTGwnRblbqt8Sqw0ba8J/s400/20121116_120349_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It wasn't much to look at.</td></tr>
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Sometimes it is about convenience - many outlets are located in suburbs. Suburban couples may want a quick date night without the kids and without a $200 babysitter bill. Sometimes it is because the food is unchallenging and consistent. There are lots of people who don't care for, or have not been introduced to, good cuisine and just want menu items that they understand. So in this light, Moxie's fits well into the evolution of Canada. The Moxie's location that I visited for this review (Riverside and Hunt Club) was only a ~5 minute drive from my office. They do brisk business lunch because the consistent, unchallenging food leaves the kitchen at good pace.<br />
<br />
So I'm an urban yupster that likes to meet the cattle rancher providing the stuff that goes in my meat grinder. By definition I'm not supposed to go to a place like Moxie's. And I'm certainly not supposed to like the burger they serve me.<br />
<br />
But dammit, I did. I don't know if this was the real deal, a fluke, or a set-up but the burger was actually good. I chose the Mediterranean burger, which included basil pesto, feta, and goat cheese.<br />
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Read on after the jump.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty was a ~5oz roundel of beef with a medium grind. There was minimal char. The inside was served a good pink, bordering between medium and medium well. That's right. See, you expected me to say that it was a hockey puck or full of filler, but it wasn't. This was a properly-seasoned burger cooked to medium doneness with good juice and a pleasing chew. In a word, it was good.<br />
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When the top bun was removed a mountain of fluffy white cheese was revealed. The poor bastards probably needed an Imperial gallon of milk to produce this amount of cheese. I also question the need for both feta and soft chevre. Feta's salty crumbliness will melt right into chevre's creamy texture into one unfortunate goat/sheep marriage. It was peculiar, but the cheeses were mild and gave a nice texture to the beef. My misgivings aside, the cheeses certainly did not overwhelm the meat and while I would have preferred a bit less, there was no fatal error here. Perfectly acceptable jar pesto was slipped beneath it in enough quantity to add a good rush herbaciousness to the cheeses.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EkwZ4womxmoYl63c7XjwHeV17witKigZO-kx1V9UXi_T1ACp3Cnr-4oMakCQpop3iFRPRkyhFW3BPjnXof5UHP4zj5tECTkj9I5vDHT1gO8vjtI38OO8YGYuFUyd0Fz-7xtZE705w1sQ/s1600/20121116_120358_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EkwZ4womxmoYl63c7XjwHeV17witKigZO-kx1V9UXi_T1ACp3Cnr-4oMakCQpop3iFRPRkyhFW3BPjnXof5UHP4zj5tECTkj9I5vDHT1gO8vjtI38OO8YGYuFUyd0Fz-7xtZE705w1sQ/s400/20121116_120358_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When feta and chevre are mixed together, the result looks kind of gross.</td></tr>
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Up this point it's all umami. The burger relies on garnishes for crunch and astringency (that's English for "zest"). It comes with a lettuce leaf, slice of tomato, a few red onion rings and a slice of half-sour pickle. They were all fine and did the job. Packing this many garnishes means that they tend to elbow their way into the picture, and I feel these were selected simply because that's what is expected by most people to be on a burger. I thought the pickle could be skipped as it interfered with the basil.<br />
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The bun was a funny sight. It certainly tasted fine and was ample enough to absorb juices, it dwarfed the patty so it looked a bit absurd in presentation. The picture below explains what I'm talking about. It was a soft white bun with a nicely browned crust, but I felt a bit too much resistance in the crust. I'm not nitpicking here - you felt a tug when you tried to bite through it, meaning that this bun was on the express train to stale, but hadn't arrived there yet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most extreme bun:patty I've ever reviewed.</td></tr>
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Finally, the burger came speared with a sweet pickle as a flourish. Seriously. You know what? I know what's going on here. There is a line cook stuck in the back kitchen dying to move up in the world and learn how to be a proper chef. Locked in a swamp of template food is an orchid waiting to bloom, who is desperate to flex his or her creativity in the slightest way possible. I wonder how many there are back there in the premium casual eateries of the world, to whom the bean counters demand consistency and lack of challenge but inside, contain a zeal for more. A few probably.<br />
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Anyway, now we get to price. It's $15, and now's where things start to fall apart at this. We're in Burgers on Main or Petit Bill's territory. So if you have to go there because it's convenient or your colleagues are dragging you, eat the burger. If you have the choice, I'm afraid to say that there are better places.<br />
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<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
If in a million years spinach were to evolve to a point where it gains sentience, it will look back and curse at these days where its spinachy ancestors were subjected to such a terrifying side salad. In fact, I bet they'll be able to trace their million-year struggle for self-expression to the day that the Moxie's "spring mix" side salad was developed. I guess because it was served next to an okay burger that the side salad was rendered all that worse. It was covered in goopy, sweet, cornstarchy raspberry vinaigrette. Dried cranberries and cherry tomatoes rounded out the excessively acidic mess.<br />
<br />
Fries are from a bag.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-7971608540876973832012-11-19T14:43:00.001-05:002012-11-19T14:43:44.651-05:00I flirted with excellence and she slapped me in the face<i>If you want to skip the sappy personal stuff, click through the jump.</i><br />
<br />
I come from a tradition of solid home cookery. Growing up, my mother was expert with a spatula, writing a popular cooking column for the Ottawa Jewish Bulletin and running a successful wedding cake business for over ten years despite having a tactile allergy to chocolate. Ron Eade once did a big piece on her latkes that caused her to briefly be known as the "latke queen of Canada" because it was republished in newspapers across the country. My father was - and continues to be - a passionate backyard griller who probably ranks meat cooked on flame as one of the ten best things that Earth has to offer. He doesn't have a broad repetoire but what he does make, he makes with great pride. <br />
<br />
So needless to say I am a very, very lucky guy that grew up ridiculously well-fed, and with the appreciation of quality, from-scratch food. It was only when I moved to the United Kingdom for grad school that I bothered cooking for myself, but when I did I went all in. In a year I went from boiling pasta to making paella valenciana, feijoada, Belgian rabbit stew with a rabbit I cleaned myself, and my very favourite dish, khoreshe fesanjan. I discovered food through my friends; each new culture brought their ingredients to the table and I used them with very, very mixed results.<br />
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I'm proud of what I accomplished because, as you probably know by now, I only have the use of one hand and two functioning hands is pretty important in the kitchen. Some things simply overwhelmed me because of my disability. Cleaning an octopus was the <i>worst</i>. I have problems removing fish skin and butchering a chicken properly. Scrabble would have been easier hobby.<br />
<br />
<br />
I'll be honest though; even with my disability aside, I'm kinda just okay. I don't compare myself to Ottawa's extraordinary cadre of so-called "amateur" foodie-bloggers that our community is so lucky to have. <a href="http://foodieprints.com/" target="_blank">FoodiePrints</a>; <a href="http://thegoudalife.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">The Gouda Life</a>; <a href="http://klwatts.typepad.com/" target="_blank">Sheltered Girl Meets World</a>; <a href="http://ottawafood.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">If Music be the Food of Love, Play On</a>; <a href="http://roughchopottawa.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">RoughChop</a>; <a href="http://simplyfreshottawa.com/" target="_blank">Simply Fresh</a> - these are just a few places among many where you can read and see an unpretentious love for cuisine and drink. They travel and document everything from casual wall-holes to epic concoctions only for the faint of heart. As for recipes, they do a great job alternating between the quick, weekday gourmet foods for the 9-to-5ers, to serious projects for veteran home cooks. And, unlike yours truly, they can operate a camera at a level that exceeds a four year old.<br />
<br />
I first wanted to join their ranks. This was a step in the evolution of me as <i>Homo coquendam</i> that started from childhood but I got gun shy, so I decided to just write about burgers. Given that I was occupying narrow culinary space, I wanted to do right by the burger. One way of achieving that was to do <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2009/10/the-blue-label-burger-blend-recipe.html" target="_blank">an absurd amount of research like Kenji did</a>, develop a signature blend, and following that a burger of untold magnificence that would shake the very foundations of burger history. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was okay.</td></tr>
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Attempt #1 was a home-ground oxtail and brisket burger with tomato and tarragon salsa (aka, tomatogon), manchego cheese, Belgian endive and topped with a Maudite reduction.<br />
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So was it excellent? Meh, not really. It was just okay; could have been better. The flavour combinations were very good but texturally, I failed to consider the need to grind the meat finely enough. I flirted with excellence and she laughed me off because despite all my swagger my fly was open (proverbially). It was a (again proverbial) slap in the face because despite my experience I let myself down. That's okay though. Life's about learning from mistakes and moving on.<br />
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You can read on for instructions and learn from my mistakes. <br />
<i></i><br /><i></i>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><h4>
Instructions: Mike's Just Okay Burger</h4>
(Makes 4-6 burgers. What? I don't know how big you like your burgers!)<br />
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It goes without saying that you'll need a food processor or a meat grinder for this recipe.<br />
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<u>Ingredients</u><br />
<i>Burger</i><br />
250g of mixed meat and fat from the oxtail <br />
500g beef brisket, cut into 3cm cubes<br />
Sea salt to taste<br />
<br />
<i>Tomatogon Salsa</i><br />
Four tomatoes, halved and with the watery cores removed<br />
1 bunch tarragon<br />
1/3 cup olive oil <br />
<br />
<i>Other</i><br />
12 leaves from a Belgian endive (2 per burger)<br />
100g manchego cheese, shredded<br />
3 bottles of dark beer - I used the legendary La Maudite from Unibroue but use what you've got<br />
1 bun of choice per burger<br />
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<br />
<u>The salsa</u><br />
<br />
Preheat your oven to 400
F/205 C. Grease the bottom of an appropriately-sized baking pan and
place the tomatoes on face-up. Generously drop the shredded tarragon
over the tomatoes like leaves shed from an autumn oak. Finally, pour the
remaining olive oil over the tomatoes and tarragon, sprinkle with sea
salt and bake for 45 minutes. Why the quantity of oil? The tomatoes will
half-roast, half-poach like a confit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRmt1RktnzQrtAtkP3nG1dZpHbh7sxyN33YanYeOg2096ZF3ETQPWl3oq5KD4IbZcZ2blzYbCVgVydI7l8su1m9OkV7DthftOkbU55GFt2ktK2KERVPTqSa4-18UPtMzaaLXVI6mC-uDi3/s1600/20121108_175356_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRmt1RktnzQrtAtkP3nG1dZpHbh7sxyN33YanYeOg2096ZF3ETQPWl3oq5KD4IbZcZ2blzYbCVgVydI7l8su1m9OkV7DthftOkbU55GFt2ktK2KERVPTqSa4-18UPtMzaaLXVI6mC-uDi3/s400/20121108_175356_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roasting tomatogons with hot pink salt from The Salty Don</td></tr>
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Once finished place the tomatogon and oil into a glass bowl and roughly chop until it's a coarse salsa. Refrigerate until cool.<br />
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<u>The burger</u><br />
If you have never worked with oxtail before, here is a brief introduction. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxtail" target="_blank">Oxtail is not actually the tail of the ox</a>; instead it is the tail of the legendary manticore,* which is farmed in the wilds of Iran and Afghanistan, flash frozen and shipped to Canada. As a whole, an oxtail is bony, fatty, sinewy appendage with as much cartilage as meat and teeming with gelatin. Yummy! A burger made entirely of the stuff is a greasy mess because of the proportion of protein to fat that it offers. Despite the extreme danger that the manticore poses to its hunters - it can shoot poisonous barbs at its prey from a great distance** - you can usually pick up a complete oxtail for about $20, which is good buying sense given its many uses.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A manti... oxtail. Bag to prevent counter grease.</td></tr>
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You can ask your butcher to trim the bones and grind the meat/fat for you; I know for a fact that Saslove's does this with a bit of advance notice. This is certainly an easier option, and if the butcher is willing to reserve the bones for you, you lose nothing from the deal. The second is to remove the meat from the long, bony tail yourself, which requires a sharp knife, patience and a bit of swearing. Enduring through this rewards you with more delicious oxtail bits, which can grant incredible flavour to soups and stews if you are enterprising.<br />
<br />
As I mentioned, oxtail meat is greasy because of the fat marbling contained within the meat. I employed brisket to offset the texture of tail. A <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisket" target="_blank">brisket is a cut of beef taken from the lower chest</a> of Texan or Jewish cows***. It contains a pronounced grain and minimal marbling - the fat resides around the cut rather than within it - and so proffers a very satisfying meaty texture that oxtail misses. When the two are added together in a 1:2 oxtail to brisket ratio, you get a satisfyingly meaty burger with enough fat and gelatin to result in a very juicy and meaty patty.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2W9QI_WFqJdLBF7Hq4umBVnn-00x3TMW21-nEwdO4lRhgHXHQBzDTXw2BTgBiZGJeAZh3-Y33ni9WiRxh5HMoNE3skdRwZBuLHK_GUzhTZ7rlnbDvSX7Z41lt0-n_BklRiig3EI80_1Sn/s1600/20121108_173231_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2W9QI_WFqJdLBF7Hq4umBVnn-00x3TMW21-nEwdO4lRhgHXHQBzDTXw2BTgBiZGJeAZh3-Y33ni9WiRxh5HMoNE3skdRwZBuLHK_GUzhTZ7rlnbDvSX7Z41lt0-n_BklRiig3EI80_1Sn/s400/20121108_173231_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oxtail trimmings (left) versus brisket (right). <br />Notice the huge difference in marbling.</td></tr>
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<br />
<a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/06/grinding-your-own-beef-burger-with-food.html" target="_blank">If you are using a food processor to grind your meat, please refer to my tutorial here</a>. For this burger, I would suggest putting the bowl and blade of the processor in the freezer. Unfortunately I have to mention that this will work a lot better with a meat grinder; a food processor will have a tough time mixing the two meats sufficiently.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyXD2xkKLSQPa2LyfBKttPYsdwV_QwH6_ETE-yoi9ru5czP9JK3YB5st11OuQZKQ6Fy-O3njlPuXK9Y_sbJDp3hHtgRh1WKcO28rfRHQRhzWlYrcrK2ISMtsUF12aX-PgcmrVE1GSetMl/s1600/20121108_180948_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyXD2xkKLSQPa2LyfBKttPYsdwV_QwH6_ETE-yoi9ru5czP9JK3YB5st11OuQZKQ6Fy-O3njlPuXK9Y_sbJDp3hHtgRh1WKcO28rfRHQRhzWlYrcrK2ISMtsUF12aX-PgcmrVE1GSetMl/s400/20121108_180948_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four of six patties. Notice how the fat is not well integrated. <br />I thought the fat would render anyway, and I was only partly correct. Partly.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It is important to grind the meats in small batches together so that they can mix well together. If using a food processor ensure that your meat is ground thoroughly, because if it isn't then you will find little globs of unrendered fat in the odd bite. One of those bites can turn you or your guests off the burger immediately, so inspect your ground carefully before forming your patties.<br />
<br />
Form into six patties (depending on how large you like your burgers) and refrigerate. Don't overwork your meat or some of the grease is going to come off in your hands - that's lost flavour - and the burger will taste spongy rather than satisfyingly beefy. You don't have to salt until your meat hits the pan; it will muck up the moisture levels in your beef. You can read <a href="http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/12/the-burger-lab-salting-ground-beef.html" target="_blank">a torturous experiment here that you can read which justifies my decision</a>, or you can just believe me. Preheat a pan until it's nice and hot and fry your burgers to the desired doneness. A general rule is about four minutes per side until medium. Once you flip the burger, place grated manchego onto each patty to ensure good meltage and get your buns toasted. <br />
<br />
Remove your burgers from the heat when completed, but keep the heat on. Pour the beer into the pan, grin like a little kid when you hear the sizzle, and simmer until it reduces by half - about 3-5 minutes. Scrape any fry-bits and stir occasionally into the beery meat broth. Once reduced transfer to an appropriate pouring receptacle and begin construction.<br />
<br />
<u>Construction</u><br /><br />
Place the patty on the bottom bun, pour a wee bit of beer jus on, and then construct as below. The patty should be juicy, so don't pour on too much extra liquid or else your bun will disintegrate.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Top bun</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Endive</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Tomatogon salsa</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Cheese</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Patty!</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Bottom bun</div>
<br />
<u>Analysis</u><br />
The patty is designed to be juicy and very flavourful, with a richness afforded by the oxtail and protein by the brisket. The manchego adds a pleasant creaminess and slight acidity, and the tomatogon salsa a fresh herbaciousness that cleanses the palate from the fat effectively. Finally, the endive adds a touch of crispiness, freshness and bitterness that helps round out the balance.<br />
<br />
As I mentioned earlier, I went wrong in my execution by failing to meticulously mix the fat and protein, leading to the odd fat bomb that was unsavoury. Don't do this and this should be a good burger. Excellent? Well, that's for another time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJji0k1uCz4PA49RByHsKj6C13wgg7Cr6Z9FzLf4nXxNhSAfrIe5KOULmASAtsWyL8U7ZHF5tbi1Ils_xwUeGSnsURn3ccULICxMFKASEquMZurBvTJ9dL4AD7KzZAGeqACNgIOi5LvsB5/s1600/20121108_184233_Hagrid1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJji0k1uCz4PA49RByHsKj6C13wgg7Cr6Z9FzLf4nXxNhSAfrIe5KOULmASAtsWyL8U7ZHF5tbi1Ils_xwUeGSnsURn3ccULICxMFKASEquMZurBvTJ9dL4AD7KzZAGeqACNgIOi5LvsB5/s400/20121108_184233_Hagrid1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You're just okay, but you know it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<u>Endnotes</u><br />
* Note: manticores don't exist; oxtails come from cows<br />
** Note: unlike the fantastical manticores, cows can not shoot poisonous barbs from their tails - they do so from their hooves, so you have nothing to worry about. <br />
***According to Wikipedia, all cows with chests apparently have briskets too. Who knew?Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-56615615536367785162012-11-05T10:52:00.000-05:002012-11-05T10:52:36.347-05:00When life hands you lemons, you make burgersMy wife and I had a peculiar evening last week. We were trying to get from our place in Little Italy to IKEA in the west end, but the universe was having other thoughts and decided to throw up a few roadblocks. We took longer than we had anticipated to leave, there was an accident on the 417, and subsequent traffic was miserable. Thing is, this was supposed to be prefaced by a burger and beer at the relatively new Big Rig Brewery. We attempted to at least scrounge a review by stopping at Mill Street, but it was packed to the gills. Nearly ready to give up and get some neighbourhood pho, I spoke words that very rarely leave my mouth: "Sweetie, let's go to the Market!"<br />
<br />
I don't like the Market much, for reasons that are entirely my own. (It's not you, Market, it's me.) It's crowded with young'uns and malcontents, crappy drivers and BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM rabble rousing they call music these days. That's its identity and Ottawa needs that area, but few things draw me there. I'll put up with it for Murray Street - the restaurant and the street itself - which seems to be avenue that calls most to dames and fellas rather than characters from Jersey Shore.<br />
<br />
It's taking a long time for me to get to the burger, eh? I'm liking the sound of my own typing today.<br />
<br />
But lo, amidst much darkness there lies a gleaming jewel of food and beverage known as <a href="http://www.brothersbeerbistro.ca/" target="_blank">Brothers Beer Bistro</a>. There you may delve into an artfully-crafted beer menu and order yourself artfully-crafted brew served with a side of artfully-crafted food. Located in the digs formerly occupied by a Japanese restaurant at 366 Dalhousie, Brothers has a slick yet understated decor and offers some of the best service you'll ever have. The kitchen serves up gourmet spins on comfort food, including one of the best burgers I have had in the capital.<br />
<br />
This should not come as a surprise. After all, Brothers was up for one of the <a href="http://www.openfile.ca/ottawa/story/burgers-which-are-best-town-you-decide-right-now" target="_blank">OpenFile/Ottawa Citizen best burger awards</a>, despite it being a horse too dark for the proles. To many it seemed like this place came out of nowhere to earn accolades without even concentrating on the burger as a medium. <br />
<br />
Just how was it so good? Read on after the jump. Unfortunately the dimness of the place meant that the pictures aren't very good. Sorry!<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The Brothers Beer Burger is a fat monstrosity of a beef burger with cheddar, bibb lettuce, fried onions, peppercorn mayo and in-house pickles. <br />
<br />
The magic of the burger is firmly patty-based. Everything else is good but it's the meat that matters. It was thick and juicy, fat and round without suffering from baseball burger syndrome. It had nice char on the outside and was noticeably cooler and moister (ie, medium) in the centre, but the dimness of the restaurant meant I couldn't colour confirm. It had a really satisfying, coarse grind that was perfectly seasoned and terrifically beefy. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju0pUzXL0cbvX9598yW87AqsfFjAykzbFKPggBeF1kYk1LYcNAqrdTv_rsg9DAgmAgeo7TeqlXY_awQWhQHtNwWO_g446MgKIi6aaiB-HUxi1wttKqvWoGnDBsQwmzqoH7AmSI_OsX-yas/s1600/brothers+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju0pUzXL0cbvX9598yW87AqsfFjAykzbFKPggBeF1kYk1LYcNAqrdTv_rsg9DAgmAgeo7TeqlXY_awQWhQHtNwWO_g446MgKIi6aaiB-HUxi1wttKqvWoGnDBsQwmzqoH7AmSI_OsX-yas/s400/brothers+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fries and burgers: Brothers from another mother</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The toppings were serious business, and while they were fairly standard they were all top quality. Often cheddar gets lost amid other flavours of the burger but here it clearly offered creaminess and tang. Cheese blanketed the patty in considerable quantity. A thickly-cut, juicy slice of tomato and crisp lettuce played more than a garnish role because they actually offered flavour to complement the burger. I can't stress how important that is to elevate a good burger to a great one. Sweet fried onions topped off the beast and done perfectly.<br />
<br />
You could tell that the pickles were special. By now there is a standard flavour to pickled cucumbers that every major brand strives for but those babies tucked under the Brothers burger nothing to do with it. They were nice and piquant, sliced thin to make themselves known but not pushy. Peppercorn mayo was added in moderation. It was not particularly pungent but added nice creaminess and played harmoniously with the construction.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREMMqbASo4bRsy8pGe45_7-9DQ-JrzHp9cDTve52uIUGZwp1dZt0WaOxU91BS3wa1KJYWABSW_kaX35KTMDKRiyAixIUn9IcxrMyxedF19aeUhCO-kECaVWMWwLkf0RWjHXpiqs48Mvsg/s1600/brothers+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREMMqbASo4bRsy8pGe45_7-9DQ-JrzHp9cDTve52uIUGZwp1dZt0WaOxU91BS3wa1KJYWABSW_kaX35KTMDKRiyAixIUn9IcxrMyxedF19aeUhCO-kECaVWMWwLkf0RWjHXpiqs48Mvsg/s400/brothers+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here it stands tall, proud, and toasty.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If there was any co-star to the meat it was that bun. Oh that bun. A gorgeous, shimmering, yeasty morsel with a hint of malt that was perfectly toasted. It was full of flavour and soaked up juices from the burger admirably. One could compress it easily to turn a tall and strapping burger into something a bit more manageable. My only complaint was that it was a bit too large for the burger, which meant that both Amy and I had quite a bit of bun left over. Had the bun not been so fantastic this would have meant points off the score.<br />
<br />
The burger was an excellent balance of fat, protein, and freshness. The size was right, the quality was unreal, and the details were examined carefully. It was easily one of the best burgers in Ottawa, and quite frankly for $16 a steal.<br />
<br />
A suggestion for the Brothers: many great burgers include a garnish - a Burger Flourish - that is speared by the decorative toothpick that affixes the bun to the meat on presentation. In effect this is the chef's signature, a statement saying "I respect the burger." You have built a magnificent creation; you should mark it with pride.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7XKYD8qoQ8VTDhZv5e6hDwqq__Y_EMdjt5_F31PgklarhTBd8r7D_mIIGMwMDQBwnMpY9XP0IsJ6kbssVF4lEyr2Wx9O0XwXMXCodwrl2pzOi4vlgELi2QuMySkLE8u2vGt3G21POBd4/s1600/brothers+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7XKYD8qoQ8VTDhZv5e6hDwqq__Y_EMdjt5_F31PgklarhTBd8r7D_mIIGMwMDQBwnMpY9XP0IsJ6kbssVF4lEyr2Wx9O0XwXMXCodwrl2pzOi4vlgELi2QuMySkLE8u2vGt3G21POBd4/s400/brothers+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fryvasion of the plate.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
The burger comes an insane quantity of some of the best-executed fries in Ottawa. Eat them until your button flies off your pants, then eat more of them. You can go for a run before if that makes you feel better but if you're like "awww shucks, I just can't afford the calories" then I politely suggest that a beer bistro isn't for you. Eat the fries.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9rZ9GdPh9k2NQG5PpKSI4e1uv9C9mrU1Caxv6alHrf0shudon0z1i9gLcI2pYu2yPtPGzRq1LIqZnm70_QuAu_1Gg5ooO_QbyIjqlhpUSzdMHBVkdTI0PXWXJXpOHTRwZjA56bWV1Uqo/s1600/Brothers.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9rZ9GdPh9k2NQG5PpKSI4e1uv9C9mrU1Caxv6alHrf0shudon0z1i9gLcI2pYu2yPtPGzRq1LIqZnm70_QuAu_1Gg5ooO_QbyIjqlhpUSzdMHBVkdTI0PXWXJXpOHTRwZjA56bWV1Uqo/s400/Brothers.png" width="400" /></a></div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-26005509500289736382012-08-31T17:24:00.001-04:002012-08-31T18:24:02.253-04:00The place where everyone knows your name ain't CheersTwenty-five years ago this month, Jim and Mike Theossidou started a restaurant in the west end of Ottawa. Having arrived from Greece when they were children, the brothers Theossidou used a restaurant concept that reflected their own lives: Greek basics meet Canadian basics. The result, named in honour of the famed American painter, was <a href="http://www.rockwellsrestaurant.ca/" target="_blank">Rockwell's Restaurant</a>, located in the Merivale Mall. It serves good food 24 hours a day nearly every single day of the year.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3JVDSLo6Z6I/UEEqUy_HMCI/AAAAAAAAAfI/HjflpmNTqRc/s1600/IMG_20120726_123419_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3JVDSLo6Z6I/UEEqUy_HMCI/AAAAAAAAAfI/HjflpmNTqRc/s400/IMG_20120726_123419_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here I am! Rockwell like a hurricane!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Twenty-five years in the restaurant business is quite the
accomplishment, especially without having to deviate from an overall
concept. Rockwell's has endured the growth of Merivale from a boulevard
to a teeming retail artery busting from the seams with motorists.
Merivale Mall, a holdover from some extant era where small,
interior-corridor shopping centres were profitable, hasn't fundamentally
changed in character from the early 90's, and there is a certain
steadfastness that it shows among the booming big boxes that surround
it.<br />
There are places like Rockwell's scattered across Canada; local joints that rear their neighbours on good quality, simple food for years such that they become an institution. People from elsewhere in the city might drive by a hundred times and passingly wonder what it's like in there, but surely they have 100 places that they still haven't tried and they won't use up limited restaurant budget on a place in a run-down strip mall.It's a shame, really. Despite the risk that a dive's food might match the surroundings, I always find reluctance to take a risk to be a bit tragic.<br />
<br />
Here's the skinny on Rockwell's. When you walk in you'll be surprised by a decor that is updated, clean, and has just enough elements of cheese to be charming. The staff will smile, or if you're lucky welcome you with a bellow from behind the bar. There are no pretentions with the service or the food on offer. We're talking sandwiches, deep-dish pizza, inexpensive steaks and roasted chicken. Rockwell's spices it up with Greek staples like souvlaki and moussaka that look really good. I actually felt a moment of regret for ordering a burger when I saw the moussaka come out of the kitchen. They serve up a great greasy breakfast deep into the lonely hours of the night for hard working shift staff or insomniac west-enders. The diversity of diners is really striking, from high school students to elderly couples and young mothers.<br />
<br />
I didn't really have any expectations about their burger other than big and greasy. There are a few burgers on offer and usually one available on the specials at lunchtime. I opted for the Swiss mushroom burger, an old diner star that can be incredibly good or just meh. <br />
<br />
Read on to see if the joint still has its magic after twenty-five years.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty consists of 8oz of well-seasoned ground beef. Like good Greeks they've put a good amount of onions and oregano in the meat, so a bite of just the patty is fresh, sweet and herbacious. The patty is nice and thick, with goodly juices despite it coming sad 'ol well done. Char is nice and the grease level is acceptable, if not on the dry side. It's not in-house ground meat from hand-fed cows but it's good, serviceable beef. This is the type of burger that you would expect to have when going over to a friend's house for a Sunday barbeque and they've bought all of the ingredients at the local supermarket. Taken individually the ingredients could be better, but together you understand that this has coalesced with thought.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ix11Iti7nGA/UEEqF3TBgsI/AAAAAAAAAew/8r0KCOIzIXc/s1600/IMG_20120726_123341_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ix11Iti7nGA/UEEqF3TBgsI/AAAAAAAAAew/8r0KCOIzIXc/s400/IMG_20120726_123341_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meat bathed in stuff.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There is serious, complete cheese coverage. Even if the Swiss cheese tastes a bit Costco it was in line with my expectations of the place. The mushrooms were well sauteed, nice and buttery, and mounded the cheese beautifully. There were no condiments to go along with the burger, a nice choice given the amount of cheese adequately greased the meat. Finally, a nice sweet bed of fried onions rounded out the hitherto-umami experience.<br />
<br />
Garnishes included plenty of sliced red onions, romaine, sorta-ripe tomato and pickle. Lots of crunch to go with the smooth.<br />
<br />
The bun was decent but could definitely have used improvement, and this was probably the biggest knock against the Rockwell's experience. It was a white, disparately-seeded soft bun that tasted like something that desperately wanted to focus your palate elsewhere. (<i>As an aside, don't you just love homynyms?</i>) It held the large burger together nicely, but it wasn't tasty enough, wasn't toasted enough, and provided too much fluff for its own good.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MqJ1csEMER8/UEEqK_yv7LI/AAAAAAAAAe4/wdhCHiB8Hps/s1600/IMG_20120726_123349_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MqJ1csEMER8/UEEqK_yv7LI/AAAAAAAAAe4/wdhCHiB8Hps/s400/IMG_20120726_123349_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I said I looooove Rock and Well!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The burger was $11, which was good value for what was on offer. It met my expectations. Overall, it was a big, comfortable burger offered up at a neighbourhood joint with as much care as a regular. You don't go to Rockwell's for the gourmet, but for this peculiar draw of personable service, a comfy interior and an inoffensive menu. Not a destination, but definitely a stop if you work in the area or catch yourself in stop-and-start traffic on Merivale and need to get off the road before you ram the Miata in front of you.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JtIUQuVbK-s/UEEqQN4YbJI/AAAAAAAAAfA/RzN-gaD3Nks/s1600/IMG_20120726_123415_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JtIUQuVbK-s/UEEqQN4YbJI/AAAAAAAAAfA/RzN-gaD3Nks/s400/IMG_20120726_123415_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For those about to Rockwell, we salute you!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
Fries are from a bag. Avoid at all costs. Order a salad, preferably Greek.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-9302996031939381512012-08-01T08:43:00.000-04:002012-08-31T18:24:53.114-04:00When a little goes a medium way: The Black ThornAh, the Byward Market. High rents, spiky tourist traffic and the endless desire to be on trend characterizes Ottawa's busiest entertainment district. There are some Ottawans that pointedly eschew any of the Market's establishments under the pretense that they will be "busy" or "overpriced." It isn't true of course; I happen to believe that you have to take the good with the bad in a popular entertainment area. I think we fare quite well in the proportion of good places to avoidable ones. Historic Québec City or the Old Port of Montréal grapple with lucrative tourist traps feasting on the legions that go for their respective coolness.<br />
<br />
Amy and I went to see the excellent Van Gogh exhibition at the National Gallery of Canada with two friends of ours. Looking for a quick bite for lunch, we settled on the Black Thorn pub on Clarence, as it was close by and we had a serious case of museum legs. That's how a lot of people feel about this place; it was lovely decor, has an extended patio perched on one of Ottawa's prettiest squares, and has a respectable compendium of alcohol on order. I think the Thorn aims a bit loftier than the Irish village assortment of pubs in terms of decor and food offerings; their dinner menu certainly carries a level of sophistication that's just a bit higher than their competitors.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UBt47bZo_U/UBkgQ5aRv2I/AAAAAAAAAdc/bNd1TaDtbi0/s1600/IMG_20120721_135635_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UBt47bZo_U/UBkgQ5aRv2I/AAAAAAAAAdc/bNd1TaDtbi0/s400/IMG_20120721_135635_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's pretty underwhelming upon presentation.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I have to say that my expectations were hovering in the basement, given that this market staple is owned by the same folks that now own the Earl of Sussex, where I previously had a disappointing burger. It took reminding from my friends that I write a burger blog and must suffer the lesser to appreciate the greater. I can't just eat at Absinthe Cafe every night; both my financial future and the integrity of my craft forbid me. But here my expectations were kept basement-dwelling as the burger on the menu was pretty boring - it was a simple beef burger with garnishes and the dreaded "house burger sauce" I hear so much about. That's it. This won't be a very long review; you'll probably be able to finish it while riding the 95 between Bayview and Lebreton (check out my Ottawa reference).<br />
<br />
Simple burgers like that rely heavily on the quality of the meat, bun and garnishes. Someone who selects specific cuts, grinds the meat themselves, bakes the buns in-house or at least procures the best and erects a two-mile "no iceberg" zone can pull this off. The Black Thorn? That dedication was so improbable for a pub that it was bound to be a disaster. <br />
<br />
Only, it wasn't. Click past the break to find out why. <br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
The burger<br />
<br />
The patty comprises 7oz of beef and only beef that has been well seasoned. It manages a good amount of sear whilst remaining soft and slightly juicy in the middle. This is certainly not a burger that emphasizes the quality of beef, but it isn't a withered puck either. You won't find much evidence of pink when you bite into the patty, likely because it has been constructed by a patty press and so ends up bit on the wide side to cook faster. And that's about it. There are no tricks here, no herbs or spices that attempt to lift ordinary meat to the extraordinary, but avoids the pitfalls of its Earl of Sussex cousin. Both had teeming summertime pub patios with burgers being served up at adjacent tables but a defter eye kept watch on this burger, and for that I was grateful.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KM9GbXsLNDE/UBkgPYsvXAI/AAAAAAAAAdY/uSv7jtg8Ngs/s1600/IMG_20120721_135624_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KM9GbXsLNDE/UBkgPYsvXAI/AAAAAAAAAdY/uSv7jtg8Ngs/s400/IMG_20120721_135624_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The burger and burger sauce components.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Garnishes are garnishes - iceberg (shudder), tomato, pickle and red onion. Nothing too offensive except the lettuce. There was supposed to be burger sauce on said burger but alas there was no such eponymous sauce hiding under the patty. Most often burger sauce is a euphemism for condiments mixed together in a bowl; if you're lucky they'll throw in some paprika or chili powder for sophistication. Interestingly, the burger came with three additional ketchup, mustard and mayo-filled dipping cups that one could theoretically use to create their own version of said sauce, though absent of the required relish. I really don't hold this lack of burger sauce against them even if it is technically false advertising simply because its application is so often unwarranted.<br />
<br />
The bun was a large, soft, white "rustic" bun that was quite good and encapsulated the meat nicely. It was lightly toasted, firm and clean to handle. There wasn't much of a juice challenge given by the meat so the bun worked out nicely. I reiterate how a simple investment in a good-quality, fresh bun can help an average burger be quite enjoyable.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M7bxKQV2rC0/UBkgRwBD4OI/AAAAAAAAAdk/GImz-G6F6dE/s1600/IMG_20120721_135704_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M7bxKQV2rC0/UBkgRwBD4OI/AAAAAAAAAdk/GImz-G6F6dE/s400/IMG_20120721_135704_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yep, that's a rustic bun all right. Fashioned in a wooden shack without electricity<br />
or running water. That's a lie.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Overall the burger was only fine because the meat and bun were fine. $14 was a bit much for a burger with little imagination devoted to it, but was completely understandable given the context of the bar and its Byward location. It isn't extraordinary value and you can clearly do better in more local-focused neighbourhoods but in the Market you'd be hard pressed to find a better burger at that price point outside of Chez Lucien. <br />
<br />
So there you go: a middle-of-the-road, anticlimactic review of a middle-of-the-road, anticlimactic burger.<br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
I ordered a side Caesar salad and it could barely be called that. There wasn't much dressing or parm, so it wasn't really a Caesar. <br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-66855117569922336802012-07-23T15:14:00.000-04:002012-07-23T15:14:59.058-04:00The goat that was meh: Clocktower BrewpubNorth America: the marriage between burgers and pubs is not as healthy as we might like. This is a completely unscientific statement but my hypothesis based on nothing is that most pubs just don't serve a very good burger. The exceptions are flocked to, but for some reason the majority just don't seem to get the picture that overcooked beef cardboard gives a terrible legacy to a fallen creature.What should be such a culinary no-brainer is not.<br />
<br />
The problem is that I like pubs. I lived in England for two years and spent a lot of that time in pubs. Studying. Lots of studying. (Love you mum and dad!) Many English pubs offer poor burgers as well but for some reason I gave that a pass because most pubs served pretty bad food regardless if it was traditional local fare or imported Americana. When I go to a pub I want a burger because that fat-carb-protein mix is a perfect culinary foundation for an evening of responsible drinking. Then I get disappointed. That said, as part of my great burger quest I insist on hitting up some of Ottawa's notable pubs to see how they fare.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBvH2od3FLw/UA1ntWNlNvI/AAAAAAAAAcM/oII1s44NlxY/s1600/IMG_20120705_183709_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBvH2od3FLw/UA1ntWNlNvI/AAAAAAAAAcM/oII1s44NlxY/s400/IMG_20120705_183709_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of these things is more shrivelled than the others.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Amy and I went to the Westboro location of the Clocktower Brewpub, an outpost of the Ottawa brewpub institution located in one of the many new condos perched above Richmond. I love Clocktower's beer, and have been happily drinking it since my Carleton University days. A large location inside, it has this rather grand patio that stretches between a gym and a Running Room location, each with posters not exactly congratulating you on ordering your third kölsch. There we sat and ate burgers amongst the Lulu-clad regulars. <br />
<br />
They actually offer six burgers for those looking, all fairly standard fare but a nice selection nonetheless. I had the so-called "Angry Goat" burger, which included a 7oz beef burger topped with herbed goat cheese, hot peppers and spicy mayo.<br />
<br />
Was it angry? Read on to find out!<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>The Burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty was 7oz of antibiotic-free local beef cooked to a crisp and not terribly flavourful. It was charred to having a burnt taste and was completely overwhelmed by its toppings. I was really looking for more meaty flavour. Perhaps beef was not the right choice for this topping combination; certainly lamb would have stood up the strong flavours of the goat cheese better than the rather inert offering. If they were really going out on a limb, actually grinding up some goat meat would have been perfect, although perhaps a bit out of character for a pub. Ordinarily 7oz would constitute a decent-sized burger but with all of
the fat gone I was suspicious as to the post-cooked weight. All in all I was a bit confounded with the meat because almost everything else about the burger was fine, so had they done this right the full package would have really stood out. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txzL1WPfj1s/UA1nr5wwpeI/AAAAAAAAAb8/Cbsm9Az04Wg/s1600/IMG_20120705_183646_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txzL1WPfj1s/UA1nr5wwpeI/AAAAAAAAAb8/Cbsm9Az04Wg/s400/IMG_20120705_183646_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up on the problem: burnt parts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The herbed goat cheese tasted mostly like a standard creamy chèvre. It was not only good, it even raised the quality of the the substandardly cooked meat somewhat acceptable because of the moisture that it afforded. There was a lot of it too, almost a wee patty unto itself! It also muted the spicy-vinegary punch of the hot banana peppers. They offered a gentle dose of astringency that also attempted to redeem the lost meat. Spicy mayo was supposed to have rounded off the construction but either there wasn't enough or our definitions of spicy differed. It was a rather chamelionic choice; the creaminess would have been lost under the cheese and the spice under the peppers.<br />
<br />
The bun was quite good. It was soft, gently toasted, fresh and had a nice buoyancy on the chew. It certainly did not have a cheap feel as with many buns, and while it was a bit large for the patty overall it satisfied the circumference. <br />
<br />
The burger was rounded off with shredded iceberg lettuce, and slices of half-sour pickle, tomato and red onion. They were their typical inoffensive selves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_37TInTYsg/UA1nshOs7MI/AAAAAAAAAcE/P1_kfCOkgG4/s1600/IMG_20120705_183651_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_37TInTYsg/UA1nshOs7MI/AAAAAAAAAcE/P1_kfCOkgG4/s400/IMG_20120705_183651_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad looking burger, except the patty.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I could see why all this was happening; a lot of the rabble demand burgers prepared like this. The fearing folk want the insides of their ground beef misery grey and so pubs often deliver thus. This burger was bizarre in that it was certainly not a train wreck, but instead had the cook not been so grill-happy this would be fine. It was not terrible, just intensely average. Burgerati, of course, know better and so if you're in the mood for a burger you can spend your $14 elsewhere. By all means, head to the Clocktower for their most excellent suds, but pick something else off the menu.<br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
Good sweet potato fries. Nice and fluffy. Both of us were thumbs-up on the beer, especially their bitter.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3S_Szu389U/UAU_LWtF4uI/AAAAAAAAAbw/DrTm3yy6lWo/s1600/Clocktower+angry.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3S_Szu389U/UAU_LWtF4uI/AAAAAAAAAbw/DrTm3yy6lWo/s400/Clocktower+angry.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-91607222484816009862012-07-09T09:20:00.000-04:002012-07-09T09:20:53.528-04:00The Beast of Toronto: Holy Chuck BurgerAmy and I took a whirlwind adventure to Toronto to see family and friends. I put that reason first to assure my family and friends that indeed we did not visit just because I wanted a burger review from the GTA! <br />
<br />
Making a decision of which joint to go was the tough part. From the Burger's Priest secret menu to the very upscale Bymark Burger, the selection here is outstanding and I don't envy the task ahead for some of the 416/905/647/etc burger bloggers out there. The craze has completely enveloped the city. The deciding factor was that one of our friends is pescatarian and so we had to choose a noted burger joint that catered to her tastes in a creative manner.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9REWZfYOBW8/T_rWCSrX8UI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/wBS8zkwNLwo/s1600/IMG_20120630_202244_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9REWZfYOBW8/T_rWCSrX8UI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/wBS8zkwNLwo/s400/IMG_20120630_202244_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There she is, freshly unwrapped. A very nicely built monster.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We settled on <a href="http://www.holychuckburgers.com/" target="_blank">Holy Chuck Burger</a>, a new but fiery competitor in the great jungle of Toronto burger joints. Open for less than a year, this modern diner at Yonge and St. Clair places its kitchen out in the open and its meat grinder in the fore of that kitchen. Chances are they are grinding your meat as you're staring at their menu considering what spin on the burger you want to try. It's quite the menu indeed. You can get a burger 'twixt two grilled cheese sandwiches or topped with a braised veal cheek or steeped in maple syrup and topped with foie gras or ground up with bacon, etc.<br />
<br />
I of course settled for their signature burger, the "Holy Chuck", which is a double cheeseburger topped with thick-cut bacon and caramelized onions. There is a little note that follows the menu item asking the customer not to add any toppings on it, and since I'm not very contrarian I ordered the burger as-is.<br />
<br />
So read on if you're a Torontonionian or TO-bound and want to know what the chuck's up with this cliche.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
Each patty is four ounces of nothing but antibiotic-free meat, ground finely and pressed fairly thin right in front of you. Most burgers at Holy Chuck come with two patties (Five Guys style) and the eponymous offering is no exception. The meat is delicious, seasoned perfectly without extra onion or garlic tricks, and streams juice out of every bite. There's even a remnant of pink in there to remind you how a burger should be cooked, impressive given how skinny the patties are. It is a classic fatty, griddled flat burger from days of yore. I had a small puddle at the bottom of my basket at the end of the meal left to remind myself of what I just did to my cardiovascular system. This is not healthy cuisine.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--0PzKeqDWKQ/T_rWC0dgX6I/AAAAAAAAAbY/-IMn0rkhtrk/s1600/IMG_20120630_202324_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--0PzKeqDWKQ/T_rWC0dgX6I/AAAAAAAAAbY/-IMn0rkhtrk/s400/IMG_20120630_202324_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That glistening ain't the flash.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now you'll probably note that in my Five Guys review I wasn't a huge fan of such abundant fat. I generally find that it tends to distract from the texture of the protein. Eventually you reach "peak fat" where the amount of fat throws the burger out of balance and any additional does not contribute to the taste. I can't say that this burger quite fell into that category but it was close, hence the not-quite perfect BurgerDAR rating. It was still very beefy in flavour, likely because the patties were stacked, and the grind of the protein was very enjoyable. <br />
<br />
The cheese was processed and there were two slices, one wedged between the patties and another on top of them. It wasn't Kraft but You could actually taste the cheese clearly in all of the hedonism, something that just isn't the case with many a more expensive cheddar. Despite my suspicion of such cheese, it actually fit well with what they were trying to achieve. The bacon was perfectly cooked, cut nice and thick and perfectly smoky. You got three big slices that were very evident with every bite. I appreciated the quality of the bacon - it contributed mostly protein and was trimmed of extra fat. We wouldn't want to be gratuitous now, would we?<br />
<br />
Beautiful golden caramelized onions were generously heaped on top, adding a sweetness to the construction that was totally necessary. I'm on the fence about the request to not add any toppings; the burger would definitely benefit with a bit of freshness and crunch added in to break up the uniformity of texture. What it doesn't need is more moisture so I wouldn't add condiments (except maybe a hot mustard), but this is one of the few times I was craving lettuce just to put a damper on the fat. <br />
<br />
The bun was delicious - soft, fresh, well toasted and in good proportion to the burger. In fact, when presented with the burger I remarked about how well composed and constructed it was for basically a notch above fast food. The bun itself was not able to stand up to the juice assault from the patties but few buns would. Interestingly a friend of mine had the "Big Chuck" burger which was similar to mine but with a bun bottom slipped between the two patties, and he was not faced with similar over-juiciness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C4HWaLdeeec/T_rWDkc2szI/AAAAAAAAAbg/a5jHUEfWs88/s1600/IMG_20120630_202334_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C4HWaLdeeec/T_rWDkc2szI/AAAAAAAAAbg/a5jHUEfWs88/s400/IMG_20120630_202334_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portion size wasn't really an issue. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Overall, this sizeable burger was $10, perfect for the haute fast food paradigm that Holy Chuck is going for. It was delicious and very filling. I would go back in a heartbeat if I didn't have so many other burger places to try in Toronto. You can also get smaller ones for about $6 if the big boys aren't for you. <br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
You know that a place so expert in the ways of fat would put together a mean poutine gravy, and you're not wrong. Not only were the fries delightfully firm and the gravy rich, but the cheese curd coverage was exceptional. They have a good selection of hipster bubbles if you're into artisanal soft drinks.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxTrja8hll0/T_Vvumrj-FI/AAAAAAAAAbE/DVUwUtBT4dI/s1600/holy+chuck.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxTrja8hll0/T_Vvumrj-FI/AAAAAAAAAbE/DVUwUtBT4dI/s400/holy+chuck.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-58737524590290895552012-07-03T08:53:00.000-04:002012-07-04T10:09:20.659-04:00Eating a mystery: the case of the Wakefield nut burgersAs you know I like a little splash of fact in my prose. I tell you how long a burger joint has been around, and that the place before it served amazing roti ten years ago, which you find interesting but not very useful given that you left your flux capacitor at home. Despite that, y'all are reading my blog in greater numbers.<br />
<br />
So there once was a guy in Wakefield named JD who cooked up a delicious vegan nut burger called the Nutstravaganza patty, but I know little about him or his product because there's little online footprint about JD. At some point he rebranded himself as a company
called Nut & Noix Co. and renamed the burgers "the
Nutburg," but there's still bubkus about them online. It's all a great, big, tasty mystery.<br />
<br />
A colleague of mine from that fair village on the river was a fan of these burgers, knew that I penned this here blog, and brought them in for me to try. They were delicious so I decided to write about them anyway, despite not having facts about the person responsible for their creations. This isn't normally my <i>modus operandi</i>. I like a bit of context around my burgers.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k5gS59yGAfs/T_LiONQ3ODI/AAAAAAAAAa4/FsuxAS4b-Cc/s1600/AwgaIydCAAEHtwe.jpg+large.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k5gS59yGAfs/T_LiONQ3ODI/AAAAAAAAAa4/FsuxAS4b-Cc/s400/AwgaIydCAAEHtwe.jpg+large.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Their Internet presence is lacking, but they've got a sweet box!<br />
(Photo by Pascal Berthiaume)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Nut & Noix Co. doesn't have a website or an updated Facebook page for their wares, so I
can't point you in their direction nor tell you where the burgers are offered in
Ottawa beyond <a href="http://redapron.ca/index.html" target="_blank">The Red Apron</a> on Gladstone. Otherwise jump on the highway
and head to the Wakefield, stop for a grilled cheese sandwich at Le
Hibou, and then to the <a href="http://www.wakefieldgeneralstore.ca/" target="_blank">Wakefield General Store</a> to nab some nut burgers. It's a bit perplexing how this small business can idly coast under the radar given this age of self-promotion, but there we are. Nuts with a bit of mystery.<br />
<br />
The Nutburg is made from a crushed and spiced blend of cashews, almonds, sunflower seeds, mushrooms, onions and carrots crushed into a patty maybe 1cm in thickness. There's no soy to be found here, which is a good thing, because soy plants are Triffids looking to devour the planet. (I'm largely kidding-ish)<br />
<br />
I probably should have made this a vegan prep to give props to my plant-dedicated friends, but when I tasted a bit of it raw I immediately thought to top it with "halloumi," the Cypriot cheese that is one of my favourite foods of all time. I also topped it with a thick slice of tomato, shiitake mushrooms and some <a href="http://www.facebook.com/somerfordandhall" target="_blank">Somerford & Hall</a> Ontario vine-ripened ketchup, served up on a multigrain bun.<br />
<br />
Read on after the break to see how it cooked up.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
The Nutburgs are very delicate before cooking; removing them from their paper dividers is a bit difficult without causing their disintegration so be careful. I cooked mine on a flat pan and I suggest that you do the same because getting these onto an outdoor grill will be tricky and they'll be at risk of cooking into fibreboard if your keen eye strays to your beer for too long. Given their thickness expect them to cook up very quickly so do ensure that your other ingredients are more or less ready to go before the 'burgs are on the heat. I cooked them for about three minutes per side at a high heat and it was enough to give them a good sear and cook them through.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0i9S6ugjalI/T_Lh-ZCYomI/AAAAAAAAAaY/khldlpz68Sc/s1600/IMG_20120625_175009_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0i9S6ugjalI/T_Lh-ZCYomI/AAAAAAAAAaY/khldlpz68Sc/s400/IMG_20120625_175009_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The burger board is nuts.</td></tr>
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Despite their thin stature the Nutburgs carry a lot of flavour. You can really feel the texture of the nuts giving it a very satisfying mouthfeel. Flavours are well balanced between the sweetness of the nuts - elevated by cooking - and the savoury vegetables. It hit different notes on the palate than an umami soy or meat burger. I would have been really impressed had they been about twice as thick because the texture does get a bit lost amid its toppings. It becomes harmonious with its surroundings rather than the focal point of the burger, which I think is one of the primary characteristics of the burger as a dish.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zR7jlQmdSr4/T_Lh_c43QtI/AAAAAAAAAag/Nvb23ZSrSx8/s1600/IMG_20120625_175015_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zR7jlQmdSr4/T_Lh_c43QtI/AAAAAAAAAag/Nvb23ZSrSx8/s400/IMG_20120625_175015_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up inspection of a nut patty.</td></tr>
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I just want to give a brief shout out to the folks at Somerford & Hall, local producers of fine ketchups, mustards and relishes. S&H sell their delicious wares at the Ottawa Farmer's Market every Sunday in the warmer months, and I highly recommend you check them out. The Ontario vine-ripened ketchup in particular is a proper balance of sweet and spicy (not piquant - the real spicy). Yes, your kids will like it and it is a healthier option than the leading brand. On the burger, the ketchup really balanced the Nutburg's savoury notes. I've been making my own homemade ketchup for years but would easily grab one of these toppings for the best homemade burger any day. These products deserve their own blog post so I'll stop here for now and have a proper interview with the brains behind the ketchup another day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZK-pTI4LgDI/T_LiARMnYiI/AAAAAAAAAao/zMiisslqvFU/s1600/IMG_20120625_175601_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZK-pTI4LgDI/T_LiARMnYiI/AAAAAAAAAao/zMiisslqvFU/s400/IMG_20120625_175601_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luscious.</td></tr>
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On to the halloumi. This is a whey cheese from Cyprus that has become very popular in the last decade due to its very high melting temperature. As you can grill it, what is a squeaky, acidic cheese transforms into a rich, savoury, salty summertime treat that matches perfectly with melon or tomatoes. Some halloumi is set with rennet so vegetarians should be mindful to read the label. Halloumi cooks well on an outdoor grill or flat surface, and should be grilled on a medium-high heat until the side is a rich brown, then flipped briefly for the other side to get its attention. It matched the burger well, balancing its sweet notes.<br />
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Sautéed shiitake mushrooms and a thick slice of tomato rounded out the burger, the former providing more earthiness and the latter some needed moisture. I chose a multigrain bun that was sized way too large for the burger unfortunately, compounded by the fact that it was triangular. You can thank Farm Boy for these very good but oddly shaped beauties. The bun is very flavourful and I thought really outlined the Nutburg but did need a good amount of ketchup to stave off the natural dryness of whole multigrain breads.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAF-XIRxM1c/T_LiBJXSWNI/AAAAAAAAAaw/aOkoooLXnC8/s1600/IMG_20120625_180141_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAF-XIRxM1c/T_LiBJXSWNI/AAAAAAAAAaw/aOkoooLXnC8/s400/IMG_20120625_180141_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful final product.</td></tr>
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All in all I would most definitely buy the Nutburgs again when looking for a break from meat. They are some of the best pre-made vegan patties that I've tasted, wisely opting to aim for a completely different taste experience than a meat product.Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-979768525714683912012-06-19T06:45:00.000-04:002012-06-19T06:45:27.815-04:00A Sunday drive to AshtonOn top of being a big fan of burgers, I am also a big fan of driving. Amy can tell you that my opinion of a perfect holiday includes hours of open road and little traffic. We prioritize the car in our financial decisions, ensuring that we can drive something nice in exchange for a reduction in other entertainment expenses. This is why the title of this blog is Mike Likes Burgers and not, say, Mike Likes Caviar or Mike Likes Foie Gras.<br />
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Jeremy Clarkson, the irascible host of the extremely popular motoring show/ode-to-idiocy Top Gear, once said that the custom of taking weekend drives into the country was dying. As this tradition died, he worried that car culture would follow with it, because if not the gentle drive among winding lanes one would associate the car with the commute to work. But it shouldn't be. Other than a bicycle, where you need many more days to cover the same ground, you need access to a car to venture out and see the beautiful country around the cities that most of us live. Ottawa is no exception.<br />
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I'm the third generation to love extended country drives, so I took the opportunity on Father's Day to jump in the car with my dad and head west. This is serious food country, where every second farmer welcomes visitors to buy their meat or vegetables and others have large signs stating the culinary end uses of the oats you're driving by.<br />
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We drove primarily around the <a href="http://www.mississippimills.ca/" target="_blank">Mississippi Mills</a> area, the unified municipality that covers Almonte, Pakenham and others. We stopped in Ashton Station, a little village that is actually two little villages. Ashton Station Road, which bifurcates the place, is a boundary of the City of Ottawa, so people who live east of the road actually live in the capital whereas those west of the road live in Lanark County. Getting the snow cleared in the winter must be a pain.<br />
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At the headwaters of the river Jock is an old lumber mill now converted into a brewpub. <a href="http://ashtonbrewpub.ca/" target="_blank">The Old Mill at Ashton</a>, as it's called, is somewhat of a supergroup of country pubs. It is owned and operated by the venerable Hodgins family, who run <a href="http://www.pattyspub.ca/" target="_blank">Patty's Pub</a> and Quinn's on Bank street. The brewery in the basement, which just started up last year, opened under the tutelage of Lorne Hart, former owner and brewmaster of the late Hart Brewing Company. Based in Carleton Place, Hart brewed in craft style before all the cool kids did it, but sadly had to bow out of the business in 2005.<br />
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The new publicans didn't do too much to the place when they took over two years ago; it's still a traditional English-style country pub. You fall in love with the place quickly. Soccer scarves hang from original wooden beams. There's the warm fire
place, a patio overlooking the river, and a long bar with secrets
whittled into every misshapen nook. Brendan Hodgins is an affable host willing to share a story or fine details about the homemade brews on tap.<br />
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The pedigree of the joint placed high expectations on the burger, known as the King burger. It was a 1/2 pound beef monstrosity with bacon, cheddar, fried onions and mushrooms, lettuce, tomato and onion on a whole wheat bun. So was it worth a stop on the road?<br />
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Yep. Read on for the deets.<br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty was 1/2 pound of beef procured from the numerous ranchers that own land around the community. Hand-formed and with good char, it was cooked to medium well but still very juicy, and seriously seasoned with herbs, onion and garlic. It was certainly flavourful, and while the cook didn't let the beef speak for itself due to its competing flavours, I think this was actually a strength. The pub was nervous about serving beef medium because they buy the meat ground from the processors; rather than a boring grey patty with just some salt to keep it company, the chef mitigated the boring with a bit of added flavour. It tasted like something a friend would cook up in the back yard. That said, the burger was ginormous; while I know there are plenty of "big is beautiful" burgerati out there, this tipped the scales past my personal preference.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What? You have a family dinner later? Nonsense! Eat me now!</td></tr>
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I ordered the burger with the works from an extra toonie: bacon, cheddar, onions and mushrooms. The bacon was really crispy, perhaps a bit too much but it wasn't crumbling. It really popped in each bite. The cheddar was plentiful but pretty boring; they certainly could move to something a bit sharper. Both the onions and mushrooms were just right, the onions sweet and mushrooms savoury and both in great supply tucked under the meat.<br />
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The garnishes were really good. Lettuce was romaine and it was... lettuce. The tomatoes were really fresh and juicy, and the red onion cut into thick slices. There were no condiments topped on the burger, but were granted on the side should you want any.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LVyedTOIdeQ/T-BTzIrZT1I/AAAAAAAAAaE/V6Nbf00_aps/s1600/IMG_20120617_124706_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LVyedTOIdeQ/T-BTzIrZT1I/AAAAAAAAAaE/V6Nbf00_aps/s400/IMG_20120617_124706_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So big you need garnishes in triplicate.</td></tr>
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The bun was serious. It was whole wheat, dense, and big, so it quickly contributed to how full you felt after the enormous amount of meat. The meat to bun ratio was slightly off in favour of the bun but nothing criminal. It tasted fresh and wholesome, but was too dense. A really nice touch was the degree of toasting; it afforded bites with a bit of nice crunch. Both my Dad and I found it a bit laborious to work through it but that didn't stop us from polishing it off. We both agreed that something lighter to encapsulate such a beastly patty would have worked better.<br />
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Overall, at $13+$2 for the upgraded toppings it was good value for good quality and an enormous portion. Quibbles aside, this is one of the best pub burgers I've ever had. It is a traditional offering made with great care that fits in perfectly with its surroundings and what the regulars can expect. I wholeheartedly recommend the Burger at the Old Mill at Ashton, and not just because I'm being nostalgic for my couple of years in England, but because it is a wonderful place to spend a few hours relaxing from your motoring adventure in Eastern Ontario heartland. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shot at that hunger torpedo of a bun. </td></tr>
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<b>The sides</b><br />
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Fries were delicious but not quite hot enough; they were clearly plated well before the burger was up. Skins on, a nice golden-brown colour, no residual grease. As for beers, that's why you go there! I had the seasonal "Hopstravaganza" and while it wasn't as punch-you-in-the-face hoppy like Hoptical Illusion by Flying Monkey, it had strong citrus and floral notes and a long but clean finish. Delicious. Incidentally, their beers are available in many places throughout Ottawa including Back Lane Cafe, the Elmdale Tavern, Must and more.<br />
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Without added toppings, complexity at 2</td></tr>
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-35965209250267612972012-06-15T14:51:00.001-04:002012-06-15T14:51:29.180-04:00The Ottawa Citizen and OpenFile Ottawa's best burger pollSo the <a href="http://www.ottawacitizen.com/index.html" target="_blank">Ottawa Citizen</a> and <a href="http://www.openfile.ca/home/ottawa" target="_blank">OpenFile Ottawa</a> have posted their <a href="http://www.ottawacitizen.com/News/makes+Ottawa+best+burger/6783516/story.html" target="_blank">best burger poll</a> today, and I encourage my readers to dive in and vote. While I disagree with the composition of the list, the poll was structured based on popularity and the crowds have spoken. I applaud the Citizen and OpenFile for the initiative. <br />
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I get asked constantly what the best burger in Ottawa is and I regularly shy away from answering the question. There is no best burger, because I'm in a different mood everytime I taste a burger, and my palate is in a constant state of development. Also, I have something like 120 more burgers to try in Ottawa, so it would be simply unscientific to declare a "best" burger at the moment, despite the popular drive for me to do so.<br />
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Please vote for your favourite in the list and have a great weekend, especially all you dads out there!Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-9737293928531353892012-06-15T06:23:00.002-04:002012-06-15T14:52:02.827-04:00Love your city: Locavore elk burgersMy wife and I love the Ottawa Farmers Market, which is unfortunate, because we often don't have the time to go and then we land up feeling regret at the end of the season. This year we made a pact to visit more often, and we did in fact do so last Sunday. If you live in Ottawa and you haven't been, please do so. You would be amazed by the number and quality of local producers and quickly tantalized by the cooked grub on offer such as the farmers breakfasts. Inspired by a recent initiative by Kelly at <a href="http://thegoudalife.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">The Gouda Life</a> and her farmers feasts, we took the opportunity on a hot and sunny day to collect goodies for a local-themed burger.<br />
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As you can see, my normal <i>modus operandi</i> on the blog is to give a witty introduction to a burger with some useful information peppered in for good measure. This section takes roughly one half to one third of the entire post; the rest is either a restaurant review or recipe (ie, what you actually came to read). This post is going to work a bit differently. First, I'm going to introduce the burger that I cooked up last night and then devote the rest of the digital real estate to each component and the story behind them.<br />
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So here goes: I had a 6oz elk patty from Elk Ranch, with Glengarry Fen cheese, sauteed Swiss chard, topped with strawberry and balsamic jam by michaelsdolce and served on Art-Is-In dynamite white baguette. Of course, to qualify for Locavore status one must show that each product came from 100 miles away or less, which mine does... mostly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who knew our city was so sexy?</td></tr>
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Let's take a closer look after the break. <br />
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<b>Elk patty by <a href="http://www.elkranch.com/index.shtml" target="_blank">Elk Ranch</a></b><br />
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I don't normally buy pre-made patties due to a misplaced sense of superiority, but on a whim we picked up four 6oz patties from Elk Ranch for $20. The patties contain ground elk, olive oil and a proprietary blend of spices. They retain some of that characteristic vivid crimson colour that elk or meat of other <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cervidae" target="_blank">cervidae</a> bears. Some may consider that expensive, but honestly the farmers deserve a good living wage for their hard work, and unlike most of the agricultural system you're ensuring that the farmer gets the cash instead of a variety of middlemen.<br />
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Elk Ranch is located in Kanata (yep, you read that right) and is owned by Thom Van Eeghen and Fay Armitage. They offer all cuts of meat and nutritional supplements made from antler velvet. <br />
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Elk meat is very lean, in fact leaner than probably every other meat except ostrich. The ranchers add olive oil to the patties to ensure that they won't be rendered charred doorstoppers after a couple of minutes on the heat. While they did add a blend of spices, they did not overwhelm the primary flavour of the meat.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspired by the size of Jupiter, I give you elk patties!</td></tr>
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The patties are very thin but with a huge circumference, something I wasn't too pleased about to be honest. The wide circumference means that they may tear when separating them from the butcher's paper, and also brings the threat of overcooking if you don't watch them carefully. Cooking up the patties is easy and very quick. On a high heat, cook each side for no longer than two minutes for medium, three for medium-well. Be extra careful not to overcook the patties, because you really don't want a brittle plasterboard for dinner.<br />
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While I would like them to be a bit smaller and thicker, I would certainly buy these patties again. At medium, they were still juicy and very flavourful.<br />
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<b>Swiss chard by Kiwan Farms</b><br />
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Devoting space to Swiss chard might seem ridiculous to some but I love the stuff, as I love any and all hard greens like collards or kale. Cooked properly they can be rich and sumptuous or crispy and savoury. Any method, they pair beautifully with meat and are very nutritious.<br />
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Rola and Ronnie Kiwan own their farm at the corner of Hunt Club road and Hawthorne. Until referring to a map I believed that intersection was in the middle of the city, inhabited by industrial parks like most of Hawthorne, but apparently there are family farms there! There they grow more than just heavy greens; you can find cucumbers, tomatoes and eggplant among others.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh, delicious red Swiss chard. On a burger blog.<br />
No, it's not April 1st.</td></tr>
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The chard from Kiwan farms was delicious - fresh, crisp and meaty. I chopped the leaves coarsely, discarding the hard stems, and fried in a little olive oil on medium heat. Add half a cup of good-quality chicken or vegetable broth after three minutes of frying, and reduce the heat so the broth cooks out.<br />
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<a href="http://glengarryfinecheese.com/" target="_blank"><b>Glengarry Fen cheese</b></a><br />
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Margaret Peters-Morris owns her cheese-making facility on pasture that her family has been farming for generations in Lancaster, Ontario. Her grass-munching Holsteins provide all the milk for her broad portfolio of cheeses, which now can be found in a variety of shops across Ottawa, including all Farm Boy locations. I didn't actually buy this cheese at the market, having it on hand from a previous outing to Il Negozio Nicastro on Wellington. <br />
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Fen cheese is a hard, crumbly, acidic cheese coloured white with a yellow blush. It reminded me of a less-salty, more well rounded Wensleydale. It acts as a perfect flavour bridge between the jam and the meat. You can slice it thinly with just a bit of crumble, or you can just have at it and crumble it on like you would a blue cheese.<br />
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An issue with the cheese was that given the very quick cooking time, it didn't really have time to melt completely. I suggest placing the hot chard right on top and waiting for a few minutes to serve, as the steam from the veggies will contribute to softening the cheese.<br />
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<b>Strawberry and balsamic jam by <a href="http://www.michaelsdolce.com/" target="_blank">michaelsdolce</a></b><br />
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I happen to think that Michael and Fumiye of michaelsdolce jams are some of the coolest cats in the Ottawa food scene: chill, creative, ambitious and incredibly good-humoured. Spend ten minutes with them and you'll walk away having purchased an armful of jam solely because their passion for the craft has rubbed off on you. Amy and I have been huge fans of their jams for a little while now - we have four on the go at any given time - so it's almost a shame that I haven't included them earlier.<br />
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The genius of the strawberry and balsamic jam is just how well balanced it is despite the ingredients being so sweet. In fact all of michaelsdolce jams are balanced just right to win over anyone who loves fruit in all of its complexity - the sweet, tart or sour. In this burger, the strawberries provided a counterpoint to an otherwise very salt-driven construction, so I really piled on the serving size on one side of the bun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJjXZby48C0/T9oy1s6K9RI/AAAAAAAAAZE/XTyZe7lk8Vs/s1600/IMG_20120611_165341_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJjXZby48C0/T9oy1s6K9RI/AAAAAAAAAZE/XTyZe7lk8Vs/s400/IMG_20120611_165341_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top third is gone because my spoon couldn't resist its red hue.<br />
That's it...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.artisinbakery.com/" target="_blank">Art-Is-In</a> dynamite white baguette</b><br />
<br />
Art-Is-In is the Arcade Fire of the Ottawa food scene. Once upon a time only hipsters knew about them, and now a very large, very diverse crowd are flocking to their market stalls and concrete-and-mortar store in Little Italy. I'm not going to go into too much detail, because I have a review of their famous burger coming up soon.<br />
<br />
Their signature "dynamite" baguettes are rich, soft, oily and salty, essentially checking off the biochemical boxes required for you to roll your eyes and sigh. Its gentle crust crisps satisfyingly, a great start to a burger bite. It has good moisture-catching ability and can be sized adequately to fit your burger.<br />
<br />
<b>How it comes together</b><br />
<br />
Amy and I agreed that this was one of our favourite burgers in a while. It was earthy and rustic and really evoked the farms where the components were born. While fairly unsophisticated, each component stood out and gave you something to think about. The rich and vibrant colours were fantastic and it was even relatively healthy as far as burgers go.<br />
<br />
You can make this burger in almost every city in North America, made with care from ingredients lifted from the march outside your urban stronghold. The ingredients are there; you just need to head down to your local farmers' market, pull out your wallet, and shake hands with the folks that spent time and effort to bring you a fantastic meal. Take the kids, introduce them to the idea of variety and seasonality, and you'll set them on a great path too! It's all part of loving your city.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C1uNZqHtc5k/T9oy6xuNrOI/AAAAAAAAAZk/-x3lA4euZ9g/s1600/IMG_20120611_171911_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C1uNZqHtc5k/T9oy6xuNrOI/AAAAAAAAAZk/-x3lA4euZ9g/s400/IMG_20120611_171911_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a delicious burger.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-50650034109154458102012-06-11T06:37:00.000-04:002012-06-11T06:53:28.453-04:00Reunion with an old buddy: Earl of Sussex PubTwelve years ago, I had my first legal beer at the <a href="http://earlofsussex.ca/index.php#" target="_blank">Earl of Sussex Pub</a>. Back then it was a dive-y hole wall bizarrely occupying some of the richest real estate in Ottawa: the corner of Sussex and Murray St. Their plushy, worn highback chairs gave one a perfect vantage for watching tourists gaggling about the National Gallery courtyard. Shelves were stacked with weathered books (RIP Nicholas Hoare) you could take home with you. Saturday nights were mostly empty except a handful of patrons in their fifties wearing socks and sandals and listening to dubious live folk music. It was almost always empty actually, which was just bizarre for such an amazing location; it could have been a watering hole for tourists, bureaucrats, politicos and market locals, but it wasn't.<br />
<br />
Earl of Sussex was awesome, and back in 1999 a lot of Ottawa was not awesome. Sussex shops were spotty and prone to high turnover. <a href="http://cafe-wim.ca/" target="_blank">Café Wim</a> - that darling Dutch coffee shop - made you wait <i>interminably</i> long for an espresso. Ottawa outside the core was a cuisine desert, save lone oases like the bacon-stuffed double Wiener schnitzel at Dalmatia.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qdwFS1NpUqU/T9XGx0zi_QI/AAAAAAAAAYw/suRBo6JF7J0/s1600/Sussex+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qdwFS1NpUqU/T9XGx0zi_QI/AAAAAAAAAYw/suRBo6JF7J0/s400/Sussex+4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I promise no English aristocracy jokes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Oh what years Earl and I had together. My nose was glued to the window there when the Take the Capital
protests clamoured by in 2002. The patio was the battleground where I
debated politics with NDP staffers in 2003 (I won). I watched Greece win in 2004 and Sens lose in 2007. I got cheerfully drunk with friends, family, strangers, bosses, and girlfriends. Amy and I lived around the corner for
six months, enjoying the dawn of our beautiful relationship over their
nachos and beer (you read that right; I am the luckiest guy in the world). And I'm just coming in at the middle of the story; the Earl has been around for 31 years, which is also as long as I've been around. <br />
<br />
Thankfully, twelve years of incredible hit Ottawa, fine food sprouted out of our sidewalks like weeds from my front lawn, and we are left with the Ottawa today, an Ottawa with a culinary maturity so developed that it even sports a blogger who writes about nothing but hamburgers. The Earl moved on too, with various local businessfolk trading shares of it and subtly prodding it in one direction or another. The books are gone, the ugly carpet is replaced, the chairs are new, there's no more bad folk, they're open later and the crowd is younger.<br />
<br />
We haven't eaten there in two years, and since then my palate has honed its excellence at detecting winning burgers. So it was nigh time to take their burger to the test. The Sussex burger is a 7oz all-beef patty with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles and "burger sauce" on a soft white kaiser bun. I added cheddar and bacon to it.<br />
<br />
How was it? Read on and I'll tell you.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty is 7oz of beef, formed flat, charred and cooked to a colour I like to call "Hopelessness Grey." It was ground finely, but maintained some measure of juice surprisingly, and as a result did not taste quite like the hockey puck that it looked like. Curiously the burger was very inconsistent in width, meaning each bite was quite different in moisture and thus taste. It was the burger equivalent to eating a box of low-end chocolates; some were ghetto-chic and others just kind of sucked.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SOvVQEmyps0/T9XGnVpiKBI/AAAAAAAAAYg/a0oN7YBagcE/s1600/Sussex+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SOvVQEmyps0/T9XGnVpiKBI/AAAAAAAAAYg/a0oN7YBagcE/s400/Sussex+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup. Look at that silly bun overhang. It's like a bready underbite.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The bacon had a good mix of fat and protein; it was charred slightly but still nice and tender. Cheese-wise there was apparent and plentiful cheddar. I'm not so sure about the burger sauce however. I forgot to confirm its ingredients with the waitress as she was swallowed by the demands of a bustling spring patio, but I'm pretty sure it was mayonnaise, ketchup and relish, similar to "burger sauces" elsewhere. "Burger sauce" is a ridiculous name for this concoction. If I was going to think of a condiment that perfectly embodies a burger, it would be Jason Duffy's smoked cream cheese, or a really good tzatziki. Anyway, there was a lot of this silly, overly pungent condimentsplosion on the burger, which afforded the whole thing enough moisture but rendered it a bit one-sided.<br />
<br />
Garnishes to round it out were the basics; shredded lettuce, slice pickles, a thin slice of tomato and a couple slices of onion. Not really worth devoting too many bits to, but they were all fresh and fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ny4MymVxOnc/T9XGs-1sv-I/AAAAAAAAAYo/raKPplwTL5s/s1600/Sussex+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ny4MymVxOnc/T9XGs-1sv-I/AAAAAAAAAYo/raKPplwTL5s/s400/Sussex+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a good portion of bacon and cheese.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The kaiser bun wasn't actually that bad, only a bit underbaked. The crust was as soft as the crumb, but it was all very substantial and fresh. Had the burger been juicier it would have stood up to assault with aplomb. There was a wee bit of flour dusting the crevices, and it all looked rather nice. It never really touched a toaster however. Also, meat-to-bun ratio was off; there was too much bun for the meat, which probably wasn't a tragedy given the differences in quality between the two. I note that the menu stated that it was supposed to be a "toasted sesame bun," which it clearly wasn't either.<br />
<br />
So the burger is very boring. It presents nicely but everything falls short from being good; it's textbook pub fare. Where it all falls apart is the price: $14. This can be explained only by the fact that they need huge margins to cover the rent. It is tremendously overpriced and not substantially different from The <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/your-ol-buddy-on-rochester-street.html" target="_blank">Rochester Pub's offering</a> in quality. For that amount of money you can eat a burger at Chez Lucien, Hintonburg Public House or Petit Bill's Bistro and get a fantastic product. Obviously the option across the street from one of the capital's top tourist destinations is going to milk us on price. I'm actually okay with that.<br />
<br />
See for years, the Earl was cheap for its location and now it isn't anymore. It's a touristy watering hole. I'm not just basing this off the burger; Amy had nachos and the cheese was mostly left unmelted. She used to love those nachos! This degradation is a big trade-off that's bound to happen, especially as the city matures and joins the ranks of other world cities with mediocre restaurants near their attractions. It's just the way of the world. Sometimes you need to trade ratty books for a packed Saturday night. I'll just limit how many of mine are spent there.<br />
<br />
The Earl's a great guy to have a beer with and people watch, but he's not the guy for everything anymore. I shouldn't blame him too much. I've changed too. We were buds in high school that grew apart, and now have a healthy respect for each other, if not a true friendship. That is, until I dissed his burger. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqG1RL_7lqU/T9XGiIdW1tI/AAAAAAAAAYY/jLMhxRFPzYo/s1600/Sussex+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqG1RL_7lqU/T9XGiIdW1tI/AAAAAAAAAYY/jLMhxRFPzYo/s400/Sussex+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You managed to get this far without me making a <br />
stupid English aristocracy joke. I say!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
The fries are good. Fried light brown, skins on, little residual grease. I had the burger served up with the real reason you go to the Earl: beer. They had Mill St. Organic for $5.50, a steal for such a great patio beer.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUN1wI39Oes/T9VZE0P3mVI/AAAAAAAAAYM/UZaK9J52n1E/s1600/Sussex.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUN1wI39Oes/T9VZE0P3mVI/AAAAAAAAAYM/UZaK9J52n1E/s400/Sussex.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-19156500970563253362012-06-05T22:39:00.001-04:002012-06-06T06:16:22.862-04:00Grinding your own beef burger with a food processor: a tutorialA few weeks ago, a regular reader that I admire a lot (Alison Fowler, <a href="http://alicatart.com/AliWebSite/Home.html" target="_blank">check out her work</a>), mentioned to me that she was curious about grinding her own meat but didn't have a meat grinder of her own. I insisted that she didn't need a meat grinder to share in the joy of home-ground meat, and that a good-quality food processor does the trick. For condo dwellers like yours truly, items like barbeques and stand mixers take up precious real estate where coffee makers and deck furniture need to go, so you do with what you have.<br />
<br />
I managed to squeeze all necessary instructions to Alison within a single tweet but since then I've had a few other inquiries about the method, so I decided to devote a post to it. After the break, I've put up a tutorial in pictures on how to successfully grind your own meat.<br />
<br />
Now, why bother doing this when good ground beef is readily available? Two reasons. First, the texture is amazing, a serious improvement over store-ground meat. Grocery stores are aiming for the typical consumer, which they believe likes a finer grind. I use a very coarse grind, and it's won over everyone I've cooked them for. Second, you can play around with the cuts that you want to experiment in protein and fat content as you like, mix meats together or add in smoked products such as bacon. It doesn't take very long either; <b>from steak to dinner time took a total of one hour and five minutes</b>.<br />
<br />
Today I ground up a piece of sirloin acquired from my go-to butcher, <a href="http://www.saslovesmeat.com/wellington/" target="_blank">Saslove's Meat Market </a>on Wellington street in Hintonburg. This meat was as left-wing as you get: local, grass-fed, growth hormone-free, antibiotic-free, sang kumbaya and ate roses (a lie), all the good stuff that despite my jokes I believe in. <i>But Mike</i>, you exclaim,<i> I thought you're against using sirloin as burger meat!</i> Well, fine readers, you are absolutely right. I did rail against the practice a couple of months ago <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/body-parts.html" target="_blank">right here on this blog</a>. However, I am also experimenting with every cut a bovine has to offer to see what are the optimal cuts to use, balancing available fat, protein and cost. Also, as you'll see in a moment, my food processor burgers aren't exactly your run-of-the-mill mush.<br />
<br />
Remember when working with meat to regularly wash your hands and work surfaces, and don't contaminate the utensils used to cut non-meat ingredients with your raw meat-slicin' knives. Raw beef won't kill ya - in fact it's darn tasty - but as you grind meat you increase the available surface area for errant bacteria to grow, so it's better to practice good food hygiene than not!<br />
<br />
So grind on, burgerventurers!<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<b>Step 1</b> - Start with meat, like this sirloin steak.
You want around 150g per burger,
not including bone if there is one.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PLHdsPkT3SU/T860xtW4FRI/AAAAAAAAAWo/zrB0q6M93_E/s1600/IMG_20120605_172035_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PLHdsPkT3SU/T860xtW4FRI/AAAAAAAAAWo/zrB0q6M93_E/s400/IMG_20120605_172035_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resist the temptation to just throw on grill.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 2</b> - Cut the steak into little cubes like so. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c-JJv6_1pbU/T8600pKQw-I/AAAAAAAAAWw/AWhnXKHm_EU/s1600/IMG_20120605_172334_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c-JJv6_1pbU/T8600pKQw-I/AAAAAAAAAWw/AWhnXKHm_EU/s400/IMG_20120605_172334_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Art shot!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 3</b> - Note the delicious marbling (fat) as it runs through the muscle protein. This is the key to deliciousness. Now put the cubes into a bowl and <b>place the bowl in your freezer for 30 minutes.</b> This is an important step - failure to do so will cause the lovely fat to smear on your bowl, leaving it in your processor and not in your burger. Take the freezer time to slice and chop your buns and toppings.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ReoNW-JLcIY/T86032-1ykI/AAAAAAAAAW4/GBBdTaq8M6U/s1600/IMG_20120605_172343_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ReoNW-JLcIY/T86032-1ykI/AAAAAAAAAW4/GBBdTaq8M6U/s400/IMG_20120605_172343_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Noted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Step 4</b> - Set up a grinding station as pictured for convenience.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LRrHUxn2xj4/T8607KFj5fI/AAAAAAAAAXA/vqztdHBSWaQ/s1600/IMG_20120605_180109_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LRrHUxn2xj4/T8607KFj5fI/AAAAAAAAAXA/vqztdHBSWaQ/s400/IMG_20120605_180109_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note my lack of kitchen real estate. Sob!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 5</b> - Put cubes in food processor. Do not overfill or you'll get too much inconsistency in the grind. Fill from 33-50% max. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hr_gnclRH0A/T860-lxBbPI/AAAAAAAAAXI/L5ujoeCGTuw/s1600/IMG_20120605_180236_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hr_gnclRH0A/T860-lxBbPI/AAAAAAAAAXI/L5ujoeCGTuw/s400/IMG_20120605_180236_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This moment is too solemn for some silly picture caption. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 6</b> - Grind. Try 10 pulses, 1 second each. Do not just turn it on and let it slice amok into your sirloin. Remove the batch quickly with a spatula (there's a blade in there) and grind the next batch. Don't wait too long or the meat will warm up and you'll get smearing. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SEBkvfjersI/T861B3DjkiI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/H8BLEBtY4nk/s1600/IMG_20120605_181228_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SEBkvfjersI/T861B3DjkiI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/H8BLEBtY4nk/s400/IMG_20120605_181228_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the coarseness of the grind. It is very satisfying.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b></b>With success you will obtain a deliberately uneven grind, with a few
larger bits that have retained the grain of the steak. When you bite
into the burger, it will taste "steakier" (stupid word of the day). Pieces larger than 2cm should go back in for regrinding.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmi77eyNhyQ/T861FxLNbII/AAAAAAAAAXY/JZNj1yQLzNw/s1600/IMG_20120605_181233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmi77eyNhyQ/T861FxLNbII/AAAAAAAAAXY/JZNj1yQLzNw/s400/IMG_20120605_181233.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fear not the ampoules of fat; they will render into explosive taste nuggets.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 7</b> - Form into patties. Form what you need and freeze the rest. Don't overwork the patty, don't press too hard, and make sure that the burger is wider than your bun because it will lose circumference during cooking. Finally, ensure that the patty is not too round, because that will cause juices to form on a single point of the bun and sog it through. J. Kenji Lopez-Alt wrote a <a href="http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/07/the-burger-lab-how-to-shape-a-burger-for-grilling-or-broiling.html" target="_blank">well-researched and very funny article</a> on shaping a patty for A Hamburger Today; I highly recommend it. I personally cook burgers on a flat surface to maintain fat, but if you are grilling your burgers please take note of his lessons. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IjhKhnB_3Pk/T861I9ZaWJI/AAAAAAAAAXg/wIRZXpLzfBI/s1600/IMG_20120605_181241_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IjhKhnB_3Pk/T861I9ZaWJI/AAAAAAAAAXg/wIRZXpLzfBI/s400/IMG_20120605_181241_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A postmodern interpretation of the "before and after" pic, with after<br />
coming before before. This is why I have a day job.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step 8</b> - Cook patties on very high heat to get a wonderful seared char-crust. Roughly 3 minutes a side. Season them with salt and pepper when they are on the grill, enough to enhance the meat's flavour. Do not <i>ever </i>press down on them. Do not fuss with them. Let the burgers do their thing. Listen to the sizzle. See the smoke. Burger.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S5C5snCAgB0/T861MU-VglI/AAAAAAAAAXo/SvVmWOmteS8/s1600/IMG_20120605_181744_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S5C5snCAgB0/T861MU-VglI/AAAAAAAAAXo/SvVmWOmteS8/s400/IMG_20120605_181744_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now the pupils start to dilate and the pulse quickens.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Step 9</b> - Prepare your toppings as the burgers cook.
Here I have tzatziki, thinly-sliced cucumber and beefsteak tomato on <a href="http://www.artisinbakery.com/" target="_blank">Art-Is-In</a> dynamite white. I have <a href="http://www.lecoprin.ca/" target="_blank">Le Coprin</a> oyster mushrooms ready to sauté.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7_5FBqokzKY/T861TsMGP7I/AAAAAAAAAX4/9IFbOy-bSHM/s1600/IMG_20120605_182657_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7_5FBqokzKY/T861TsMGP7I/AAAAAAAAAX4/9IFbOy-bSHM/s400/IMG_20120605_182657_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veggies? WTF is this?! Take me back to the beef!<b><br /></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Step 10</b> - Flip carefully; there are no fillers and sirloin is fairly low in fat so you don't want it falling apart by uncaring hands. Don't press down <i>ever</i>. Every drip of juice lost now is juice lost to your palate.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XPX9Wi_iDeE/T861Qa1gm_I/AAAAAAAAAXw/fg-D-E3bU94/s1600/IMG_20120605_182320_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XPX9Wi_iDeE/T861Qa1gm_I/AAAAAAAAAXw/fg-D-E3bU94/s400/IMG_20120605_182320_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhhhh yeah baby, that's the stuff.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Step 11</b> - Build any way you like. Let your meat rest a little before serving; a burger right off the grill isn't as good as a burger with more relaxed protein. Consume.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7HC60A7KDGE/T861Wx9wXsI/AAAAAAAAAYA/856mpXnBr7A/s1600/IMG_20120605_183309_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7HC60A7KDGE/T861Wx9wXsI/AAAAAAAAAYA/856mpXnBr7A/s400/IMG_20120605_183309_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My meat-to-bun ratio was off. -0.5 BurgerDAR quality there, Mikey.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So there you have it. Give it a try and let me know what you think; I'd be interested to hear how it went!Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-66085606409844942462012-06-03T17:37:00.001-04:002012-06-03T17:38:03.799-04:00Vegas Vacation, Part 2: Burger Bar by Hubert Keller reaches near perfection<i>(This is burger #2 from my recent Las Vegas adventure. You can read about the first one <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/06/vegas-vacation-part-1-holsteins.html" target="_blank">here</a>)</i><br />
<br />
We don't have any celebrity-chef restaurants in Ottawa, although as the stars of several of our hometown chefs (<a href="http://www.foodnetwork.ca/topchefcanada/bios/-/48013/story.html" target="_blank">go Johnathan!</a>) rise perhaps that will soon change. Several foodies that I have spoken to ritualistically shy away from restaurants owned by the self-promoting, empire-building type, figuring that while good, they will be expensive for the quality. We actually visited two such restaurants in Vegas: American Fish by Michael Mina (which was amazing but falls outside this blog) and <a href="http://www.burger-bar.com/lv_main.php" target="_blank">Burger Bar by Hubert Keller</a>.<br />
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Hubert Keller fits the celebrity chef bill nicely. An Alsatian chef living in the United States, he is the owner of Michelin-starred Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Fleur in Las Vegas. He appeared on Top Chef as a judge and Top Chef Masters as a competitor, has a bunch of awards on his mantle, and rocks a killer hairdo. Chef Keller has a love affair with burgers too, which puts him high in my books. Fleur offers the famous $5000 "Fleur burger 5000" on its menu, which is actually a luxe burger served with a bottle of 1995 Chateau Pétrus. He also wrote a cookbook about burgers.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bb5lVmddMW4/T8vXv7ajRXI/AAAAAAAAAWE/W62VJl80ggs/s1600/bb1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bb5lVmddMW4/T8vXv7ajRXI/AAAAAAAAAWE/W62VJl80ggs/s400/bb1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stuff of memories.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I was very excited to visit. <a href="http://littlechinaly.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Fellow blogger</a>, foodie and friend Christine raved about it, <a href="http://www.vegasburgerblog.com/" target="_blank">Vegas Burger Blog</a> praised it as one of the city's best, and a good heap of professional reviewers gave it top marks. So it was clearly time to visit this temple to meat-on-bun. On the other hand, this was still the Vegas strip, I was a bit burned by my experience at Holstein's, so I had to keep my expectations in check. <br />
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I should note that readers in the US don't have to go to Vegas for Burger Bar: two other locations in San Francisco and St. Louis serve up the good stuff with pretty much identical menus. <br />
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What an unassuming place for a celebrity chef joint. It is very much a sports bar; service was professional but casual, TVs in the booth were playing the NBA playoffs, milkshakes and beer took prominence over cocktails, and the music was lost in 1987. The menu at BB is also pretty simple: there are a few chef-designed options to choose from, but the emphasis is clearly placed on designing your own burger, with an incredible assortment of meat and veggie patties, toppings and buns on offer. Since I needed to follow my guidelines, I had to choose a pre-designed item from the menu, and what better choice than the burger named after the man himself?<br />
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The Hubert Keller burger is a 6oz bison burger with bleu cheese, sauteed baby spinach and caramelized onions on ciabatta, with a red wine and shallot reduction served on the side, for $22. Was it good? Very. Why? Read on.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty was 6oz of pure Wyoming bison goodness. It had nice char and ample flavour, soft, slightly gamey and lean. I ordered it medium-rare and it came so, a glorious deep red, cool and so flavourful. Seasoning of the meat was a bit on the mellow side, but the cheese ably carried that baton.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzegSeUYrbk/T8vX5s11CZI/AAAAAAAAAWc/tzuVfG4zmZw/s1600/bb4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzegSeUYrbk/T8vX5s11CZI/AAAAAAAAAWc/tzuVfG4zmZw/s400/bb4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look at that gorgeous monster!</td></tr>
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Crumbled bleu cheese was plentifully piled on, half melted, half slightly firmer, leading to the odd nugget of that sharp acidity it's famous for. There was plenty of spinach as well, which gave an entire bite a really fulfilling earthy flavour with a lingering buttery finish. Sweetness from the perfectly caramelized onions balanced the salt from the cheese and stood out well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hqPqqswT28o/T8vXzFiUefI/AAAAAAAAAWM/mZEw_pfWquo/s1600/bb2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hqPqqswT28o/T8vXzFiUefI/AAAAAAAAAWM/mZEw_pfWquo/s400/bb2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bison. Bleu. Gleaming spinach. Droolface.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was interested by the inclusion of the red wine and shallot reduction, as I had until that point never encountered this at a burger joint. Bison is naturally very lean and could dry out easily if not cooked carefully. While not really an issue when eaten medium-rare, to the bulk of diners who order their burgers with greyer cores than myself, the reduction adds moisture while being viscous enough to not over-saturate the bun. Wanting to provide my dear readers with good-quality analysis, I cut my burger in half, poured the reduction on one side, and did a taste comparison.<br />
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The result: the reduction was quite mellow but definitely added a nice undercurrent of savoury flavour and richness on the palate. I definitely found myself preferring the sauced side to the one without. I would suggest that it would have really brought the burger together had it been cooked more thoroughly, but as it was already quite moist it was not revolutionary. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_hFZHnCLjX4/T8vX2SNC_lI/AAAAAAAAAWU/AdJoFEu9j_U/s1600/bb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_hFZHnCLjX4/T8vX2SNC_lI/AAAAAAAAAWU/AdJoFEu9j_U/s400/bb3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I want to laaaaay down on a bed on spinach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The only kink in the package was the ciabatta bun. Baked fresh in house, it was soft, lightly toasted and in good ratio to the meat and toppings, but it was less than stellar. You see, the burger in concept mirrors Chef Keller himself, a man who brings formal French cuisine to the United States using local ingredients when possible. Bison meat is quintessentially (North) American, whereas the sauteed spinach and bleu cheese are the French influences. So what is ciabatta doing there? If there was a time for brioche it would be now. The heavier, eggier bread would have really made the experience perfect.<br />
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Time for pricing. The burger is $22, the second most expensive on the menu, which is a lot to ask for in a sports bar. Caveat emptor, right? A celebrity's name was attached and I was in the desert hunting ground of corporate vultures, but I still found the price a bit high for a place where I sat barside and watched LeBron do his thing. No amuses bouches and white cloth service here. That said, I still highly recommend checking out Burger Bar; I loved my burger and I'm sure you will too.<br />
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<b>The sides</b><br />
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I had onion rings, which were perfect. A crunchy and thick batter fried a deep brown and a very tender onion. Each bite went right through, no trailing onions here. Very little residual grease. My wife's skinny fries were meh; skins off, too salty and altogether too fast food for my liking. I paired with a <a href="http://www.newbelgium.com/beer/detail.aspx?id=c35e8a3e-0a8c-404d-8b74-b03fe3e90c44" target="_blank">New Belgium Ranger IPA</a>, which really outstanding.<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-91690286787142538872012-06-01T15:48:00.000-04:002012-06-01T15:48:17.874-04:00Vegas Vacation, Part 1: Holstein'sWelcome back, dear readers! I have returned from Sin City having visited two of the Strip's most lauded burger establishments. This is not just a small local blog highlighting the great burgers of Canada's capital; no, I fully intend this little corner of the Internet to have an international perspective. Hopefully I can bring back some research to inform our own burger scene so I put this fierce and narrowminded dedication to good use!<br />
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Las Vegas is an interesting visit for burgerati because you can't walk ten steps without hitting a place flipping patties, but like most of the town you should be highly suspicious of the quality. In the dense tourist clusters of the Strip, West Strip or Fremont Street, everyone is hustling to bleed you of your hard-earned cash in exchange for mediocre product. You either have to go in with a keen eye and all your wiles charged 100%, or just shrug and let the city's seediness wash over you and accept the consequences.<br />
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My wife and I celebrated our second anniversary in Las Vegas and wanted to limit burger visits to two so I had to be judicious. The first choice was <a href="http://holsteinslv.com/" target="_blank">Holstein's</a> in the Cosmopolitan, and the second was Burger Bar by Hubert Keller in Mandalay Bay. These two entries are aimed at tourists, who will likely not venture off the beaten path, and will only have Strip options to choose from for sake of convenience. Vegas locals should go check out Erik Chudy's venerable <a href="http://www.vegasburgerblog.com/" target="_blank">Vegas Burger Blog</a> for your perspective, because you are eligible for local discounts at most of these places (eg 20% at Public House) so your value estimates will differ from the fanny pack'd hordes.<br />
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Holstein's is located in <a href="http://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/" target="_blank">The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas</a> and shares much of its DNA with its surroundings. The Cosmo is - depending on your perspective - hip and sexy or gaudy and obnoxious. As a result, Holstein's belts out house music, employs very attractive staff, and serves up cocktails with as much gusto as its 100+ beer selection. It is owned by Block 16 Restaurants, a Vegas-based restaurant conglomerate that owns five properties in the valley with similar-feeling schtick, from the hip Barrymore Lounge to LBS Patty Wagon food truck.<br />
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Holstein's offers a nice range of sliders and full burgers with different meats and topping combinations, cooked to order. The beef is grass-fed and most of the toppings organic, and prices range from $14 for straight-up to $28 for wagyu and foie.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4oT25stpV4/T8kYyqcjaII/AAAAAAAAAVU/3hAs3monZTo/s1600/Holstein1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4oT25stpV4/T8kYyqcjaII/AAAAAAAAAVU/3hAs3monZTo/s400/Holstein1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull-gawk-eye view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was excited to try Holstein's for a while now, especially one curiosity on the menu that I felt was a really interesting concept. The Korean "Bull"gogi burger is a sweet soy marinated beef patty with kimchi slaw, chili mayo, kalbi glaze and a fried egg on top, for $16.50. Was it as intriguing as it sounds? Read on after the break.<br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty was big; an 8oz, inch-thick beef slab with good char-crust and good beefy flavour. I ordered it medium-rare but it was definitely medium, with a warm pink centre obscured slightly by the ocean of added liquid courtesy of the glaze and marinade. While seasoning was there the sweet-soy marinade was dominant in its
sweetness. This wasn't a terrible thing, as a burger with this flavour
profile was actually a refreshing change.<br />
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I know a burger joint like this will probably prep a day's supply in the morning with a hand-cranked patty press, and that's fine. They key is not to have the meat pressed so hard that the fat has nowhere to go but out. Using a marinade after the beef is ground requires tighter packing or else the meat will disintegrate, but this obviously comes with a cost. In this case it left the texture with somewhat of a pre-made feel. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g2Cp0jofNsU/T8kY14OU3WI/AAAAAAAAAVc/EHkdzGDew1w/s1600/Holstein2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g2Cp0jofNsU/T8kY14OU3WI/AAAAAAAAAVc/EHkdzGDew1w/s400/Holstein2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patty with char and slaw.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The bun was fresh and delicious but woefully unprepared for the task at
hand. When first picking up the burger, the bottom half of the bun was already
soggy from the liquid. In fact the liquid factor was ridiculous, with stuff pouring out the back and a nice puddle of sweet soy and beef juice forming on the plate. I suppose the meat:bun ratio would have been on the mark, but the bottom bun had utterly disintegrated by meal's end.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOUHuAvpbVQ/T8kY9S-oU5I/AAAAAAAAAVs/OxbOMGQLhXw/s1600/Holstein4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOUHuAvpbVQ/T8kY9S-oU5I/AAAAAAAAAVs/OxbOMGQLhXw/s400/Holstein4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look carefully; you can see the super-saturated bottom bun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the most attractive elements of the burger on paper was the kalbi glaze. For those of you not in the know, kalbi is a Korean dish of ribs marinated with soy, garlic, sesame, sugar and sometimes some heat - easily one of the most delicious preparations of meat in existence. Ottawans can visit Le Kim Chi on Preston Street for a good intro to the stuff. In terms of this burger, I felt that the kalbi flavours were there - especially soy and sesame - just not enough to counter the sweetness.<br />
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The kimchi slaw was too much like slaw and not enough like kimchi; it did not have that characteristic bite that everyone loves kimchi for. That said, it provided a great textural break in the umami of the meat and egg. It was both crunchy and refreshing. Speaking of the egg, it was fried and seasoned perfectly and was a lovely addition. There was chili mayo for more fat and moisture (seriously), but the heat wasn't really present.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-At_cq1yC0Lc/T8kY5zF7ZTI/AAAAAAAAAVk/3r0AAQrkqW8/s1600/Holstein3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-At_cq1yC0Lc/T8kY5zF7ZTI/AAAAAAAAAVk/3r0AAQrkqW8/s400/Holstein3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Egg yolk and chili mayo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I figured that the goal of this burger was to balance the sweet meat,
biting slaw and salty glaze into a harmonious ode to Korean cuisine, but
it failed to live up to that ambitious task. It's actually reasonable value for $16.50 and a good buy for a Strip restaurant, but I would stick to more traditional offerings on the Holstein's menu. This is clearly a case of a burger being defeated by its complexity. I personally would have left the marinade out of it, and instead brushed the patty with a perfectly-executed kalbi glaze and ramped up the kimchi's bite, relying on the egg to soften any extremes.<br />
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<b>The sides</b><br />
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We started with deep-fried pickles, which were awesome. I mean deep-fried pickles, ha! I upgraded my regular fries to sweet potato fries and was met with the most average set I've ever eaten; these were so ordinary that I doubt they were made in house.<br />
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<b>Side note</b><br />
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Amy had the Nom Nom Burger, which was wagyu, potato chips and cheddar cheese with 1000 Island dressing. I had two bites and don't feel that I got enough intel for a full review, but we were both very disappointed with this burger. The patty was really skinny and dry and as a result what should have been a very moist, soft wagyu texture was completely lost to the toppings. This was likely due to the patty being pressed too hard. This is bad period, but completely inexcusable with wagyu, which should never meet a patty press in its life. Avoid.<br />
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_G8BP0C-qg/T8kWR8S9FwI/AAAAAAAAAVI/zT4PgHoyNUE/s1600/Holsteins.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_G8BP0C-qg/T8kWR8S9FwI/AAAAAAAAAVI/zT4PgHoyNUE/s400/Holsteins.png" width="400" /></a></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-2712976275952703122012-05-26T07:43:00.003-04:002012-05-26T07:43:42.446-04:00On travel hiatus until June 1Hey kids! I'm soon off to Las Vegas with my belle to celebrate our anniversary and undertake some serious burger-oriented research. I'll be back June 1 with at least two Vegas burger reviews to share.<br />
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Hasta la vista and see y'all in a week!Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-3288409405579291902012-05-24T10:56:00.002-04:002012-05-24T12:05:55.034-04:00In the House of the Green Fairy: Absinthe CaféOne of our favourite spots in Wellington West is <a href="http://www.absinthecafe.ca/" target="_blank">Absinthe Café</a>, a contemporary restaurant where locavore meets modern European. The design reminds me of an upscale Prague bistro - attractive staff, lots of mirrors everywhere, and a nonchalant pride placed into every dish. I feel like this is a symbol of Ottawa's budding food maturity, but you have real food writers like <a href="http://foodieprints.com/" target="_blank">Don, Jen and Claire</a>; <a href="http://klwatts.typepad.com/" target="_blank">Katy</a> or <a href="http://thegoudalife.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">Kelly </a>to remark on stuff like that. I'm just a guy that writes about burgers.<br />
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This is the first burger I've eaten under the "Likes Burgers" rubric that costs over $20. There is an irrational threshold of expectation that exists for ground beef that costs more than a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_twenty-dollar_bill" target="_blank">Queen Liz</a>. I feel like Mark Carney would chide me for making a financial decision like that, but I did effortlessly in the name of a blog that makes me no income in return. Irrational, I tell you. If dollars are the conversion of a unit of work into a unit of bling, than this burger would have to be nearly three times "better" than a Hintonburger, or else the price gap must be made up by service and sundries such as amuses bouches and bread. You expect that a chef would have to work around two to three times harder than his/her Hintonburgundian comrades.<br />
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And then there's opportunity cost, which my economic-minded readers will know, is defined as "that sinking moment of inner confusion when you realize that you just ordered a <i>hamburger </i>in one of the top restaurants in your area code." What wonderful creation could you be eating instead of that burger? Can a burger be that good as to outweigh a choice of something less traditional? <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z5MvWBGJkEc/T75LK5DO8NI/AAAAAAAAAUc/_zR5EZLqOIg/s1600/IMG_20120518_200344_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z5MvWBGJkEc/T75LK5DO8NI/AAAAAAAAAUc/_zR5EZLqOIg/s400/IMG_20120518_200344_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The object of my affection.</td></tr>
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<br />
So now that you've slogged through three paragraphs of neuroses, you're wondering if the burger - called the Benevolence Burger - at Absinthe Café is worth it. It's an all-beef patty with house baconnaise, house-smoked bacon, aged cheddar, lettuce, and tomato on a house-baked brioche bun. <br />
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So how did it turn out? See how many times I used the word "house" up there? Remember that when you read on after the break.<br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty is a hand-fashioned 4-5oz' of ground hanger steak (same as their steak frites), griddled to order. In my case I asked for medium and lo, it came thus. Hanger is an interesting choice because it's a lean cut without much marbling and so the juices are pretty tame in the burger patty. For this reason I highly recommend that you do not order it well done, because it would be subject to drying. At medium it was immensely satisfying. I found the meat to have incredible flavour, a nice coarse grind and spot-on seasoning, all without much grease on the palate (from the meat anyway). There was a beef forwardness similar to Black Cat's burgers; many consumers find hanger steaks have a wild gaminess to their flavour, and this could be why.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CzgW1c8Y7lA/T75LO-6qlOI/AAAAAAAAAU0/HHtS3k9Dz5I/s1600/IMG_20120518_200958_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CzgW1c8Y7lA/T75LO-6qlOI/AAAAAAAAAU0/HHtS3k9Dz5I/s400/IMG_20120518_200958_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revealing the beautiful inside.</td></tr>
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Baconnaise was the sole condiment and probably the single greatest driver of the experience after the beef. Flavour-wise it balanced smoke, salt and spice expertly. It was topped with house-smoked bacon, which was tender, protein-rich and not overly salty. It stood out from the baconnaise based on texture and flavour, which is pretty impressive because that condiment was pretty potent. The final star topping was aged cheddar, which as usual receded beneath the onslaught of its accompanists, but it seemed to embrace my patty with its meltiness and so bites that were bacon-free revealed its creamy acidity. So the cheddar is Gary Oldman in Nolan's Batman series: not really shining, but he rounds out the cast.<br />
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The bun was perfection, firm crust, soft, eggy crumb and toasted with just enough char. Meat to bun ratio was perfect, and did not suffer sogginess under the juices or dressings. Cold garnishings included lettuce and tomato, both fresh and adding a touch of freshness.<br />
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As a final mention, you can see from the pictures that the burger came with a flourish - a pickle speared into the top of the bun with a toothpick. Burger flourishes are commonly used in famed burger destinations around the world, used to pin optional garnishes to the main event for visual impact. Flourishes are conspicuously missing from most Ottawa establishments so I was most pleased to see one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rlu-zjEuaEU/T75LMYLokaI/AAAAAAAAAUk/zcfcD52i3GY/s1600/IMG_20120518_200351_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rlu-zjEuaEU/T75LMYLokaI/AAAAAAAAAUk/zcfcD52i3GY/s400/IMG_20120518_200351_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was fat-tastic.</td></tr>
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Overall, the burger had a luscious, rich mouthfeel that certainly set it
above the common offering. It is sized well, especially given two sides to accompany it. Yes, $23 may be expensive to go out for a
quality burger, but think of it two ways. First, you are paying for dedication and ownership over a quality product, and significant effort has gone into making a traditional dish exceptional. Second, you're getting great quality everything else, it's just that I don't review service and decor on my blog. Both those things are worth every penny. I firmly situate
Absinthe into Ottawa's burger pantheon, and hope that it - or an
evolution of it - remains on the menu for the restaurant's lifespan.<br />
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Oh, and just before I move to the sides, here is my "boom" moment. The boom moment is when you're already sold on something, and I add just one more thing to the sales pitch that provides even more impetus to go. It's the cherry on top, the pickle flourish. Here goes: Absinthe gives $1 from every Benevolence Burger to the <a href="http://ottawa.anglican.ca/cornerstone/" target="_blank">Cornerstone Housing for Women</a>, a local emergency women's shelter. Boom. I'll let you sit with that information for a moment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ht3XltoNC3c/T75LNwO36VI/AAAAAAAAAUs/NljZHKwST1s/s1600/IMG_20120518_200503_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ht3XltoNC3c/T75LNwO36VI/AAAAAAAAAUs/NljZHKwST1s/s400/IMG_20120518_200503_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burger with flourish and its partners in sublime.</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
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The burger came with two sides - an arugula salad and duck confit poutine. The former was knockout-awesome, while the latter I had trouble with. Arugula leaves are topped with parm and lemon-thyme vinaigrette; it's simple and very refreshing. On the other hand, the poutine contains their amazing fries drenched in a very salty, heavy gravy with chunks of confit duck scattered throughout. I found the gravy overpowering and too plentiful, and after a few bites actually set it aside because my wife claimed it as her own.<br />
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uopgTndNYJ0/T74PpIgUyJI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/WM7gOKJKd2A/s1600/Absinthe.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uopgTndNYJ0/T74PpIgUyJI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/WM7gOKJKd2A/s400/Absinthe.png" width="400" /></a></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-72947062808108675422012-05-22T19:55:00.003-04:002012-05-22T19:55:21.448-04:00Quickie: Salmon burgers with salmoriglioI'm not always in the mood for a huge bacon cheeseburger, and I'm expecting next week in particular to be red-meat-a-licious, so I decided to take it easy this weekend with a salmon burger recipe. It was topped with one of the greatest condiments ever designed.<br />
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So in case you've never heard of it, there is this incredible sauce called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salmoriglio" target="_blank">salmoriglio</a>. Salmoriglio, which is the Italian name for what Sicilians call "salmurigghiu" (how cool is Sicilian?), is a fresh and vibrant dressing with elements that would match a lighter burger perfectly. Its genius is a mix of lemon and fresh herbs, fresh garlic and the best olive oil. In Sicilian cuisine it is often used as a brine for fish, but it can be added to any light protein, blanched vegetables, or new potatoes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E46USMANi3M/T7wiaxcT4yI/AAAAAAAAAT8/6GTQwD42DCg/s1600/IMG_20120520_192754_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E46USMANi3M/T7wiaxcT4yI/AAAAAAAAAT8/6GTQwD42DCg/s400/IMG_20120520_192754_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A delicious meal for summer.</td></tr>
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Recently, I made wild sockeye salmon burgers with heaps of this glorious stuff, grilled red peppers, salmon skin, <a href="http://www.fifthtown.ca/artisan_cheese/products/item/bonnie_and_floyd/overlay" target="_blank">Bonnie and Floyd washed-rind sheep's milk cheese from Fifth Town</a> on a Portuguese-style bun. It was incredible.<br />
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There has been consternation for several weeks now that Fifth Town is about to cease production. I just want to reassure the cheese-loving population of Ontario and beyond that our beloved LEED Platinum purveyors are in restructuring, a process which may lead to a sustainable company in the future. Don't mourn before the patient is deceased.<br />
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Stay tuned this week for my review of Absinthe Café as well as another recipe. <br />
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<b>What you'll need</b> (makes four)<br />
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<u>Burgers</u> <br />
Four salmon patties (<a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/spicy-salmon-roll-burgers.html" target="_blank">see here</a>)<br />
Two red bell peppers, chopped into large slices<br />
50g Bonnie and Floyd, sliced thinly (I'm a snob, but any semi-soft sheep or goat's milk cheese will do)<br />
The skin from your salmon filet<br />
Four amazing buns, preferably Portuguese or Italian white that are flour-dusted. <br />
Salmoriglio<br />
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<u>"Real" Salmoriglio</u><br />
1/2 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves*<br />
2 tbsp fresh oregano leaves<br />
Zest of half a lemon<br />
Juice of one lemon<br />
2 cloves garlic<br />
100mL olive oil<br />
Salt and pepper to taste<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JonI9c9FVY4/T7wh1kR4XyI/AAAAAAAAATs/U6j1xHbr3rI/s1600/IMG_20120520_190908_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JonI9c9FVY4/T7wh1kR4XyI/AAAAAAAAATs/U6j1xHbr3rI/s400/IMG_20120520_190908_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yours will be greener; I put the parsley component in the burger itself.</td></tr>
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If you can whiz the ingredients in a blender or food processor, you're good to go, otherwise you'll have to mince the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Make the sauce well enough in advance for the flavours to meld - at least two hours but overnight if possible. The salt content shouldn't be ignored; you want to balance some of the acidity from the lemon.<br />
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You can make the salmon burgers like I did in <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/spicy-salmon-roll-burgers.html" target="_blank">this recipe</a>, because they're good! When making my burgers this time, (*) I actually kept the parsley out and added it right to the patty instead, which wilted it and brought out more of its gentle verdancy. If you choose to do so, cut the parsley by half. Lay your cheese on the patties after the first flip to ensure that it melts on time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wQPKVWYfRMY/T7wiXkXzHII/AAAAAAAAAT0/OKf2Ob9X2nM/s1600/IMG_20120520_192734_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wQPKVWYfRMY/T7wiXkXzHII/AAAAAAAAAT0/OKf2Ob9X2nM/s400/IMG_20120520_192734_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pepper, cheese, patty, skin - twixt salmoriglio'd buns.</td></tr>
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Cut the red peppers into large slices or thirds - you can use one whole side as a large slab of red peppers if you'd like. Grill them until they're nice and sweet and show lots of char. They'll act as a nice counterbalance to the tart and salt from the other toppings. They need about seven minutes a side on medium-high heat.<br />
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Salmon skin can be carefully draped over the grill, because it is difficult to handle when raw. It will crisp up pretty quickly, but tastes good when browned. Start with the outside facing down, then flip when ready. It won't stay hot for that long, so do this when you toast your buns.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-80bcRMi9oI0/T7wie7e0E0I/AAAAAAAAAUE/T_xXMTjiHvQ/s1600/IMG_20120520_193112_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-80bcRMi9oI0/T7wie7e0E0I/AAAAAAAAAUE/T_xXMTjiHvQ/s400/IMG_20120520_193112_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shot in natural light. God that tasted good.</td></tr>
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Make yourself a nice fresh salad as a side to this healthy burger.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
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Bun top<br />
Salmoriglio<br />
Red pepper<br />
Cheese <br />
Patty<br />
Skin<br />
Salmoriglio<br />
Bun bottomMikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-52579005800505541772012-05-17T10:48:00.003-04:002012-05-17T10:48:59.305-04:00Deliciously hip: the Hintonburg Public HouseA few weeks ago, the esteemed rag <a href="http://nymag.com/" target="_blank">New York Magazine</a> published a thought-provoking and often hilarious review of Brooklyn's artisan food producing community. As centre of the hipster universe, Brooklyn's artisans tirelessly labour at making foods in their respective "old-fashioned" ways, producing delicious products the most inefficient means possible. It is based on the credence that hard work is to be respected, and gives the product a <i>je ne sais quoi</i> that exists beyond what can be sensed.<br />
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This is an ideological position, not really a rational one because the act of tasting and enjoying is a biochemical process; you can't taste "work," you can only smell and taste its product in the form of molecules. And yet so many insist that simple, fresh and earnestly constructed food tastes better than its lab-designed, processed competition despite the latter having millions of dollars and brilliant minds designing it to blow your socks off. Is it actually true, or do we just want it to be true? Weren't the Top Chef judges fooled by Connie's blueberry pie crust in Season 1? Where does molecular gastronomy fit in that continuum? It's an interesting debate in the food world that I don't believe is completely resolved.<br />
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The <a href="http://hintonburgpublichouse.ca/" target="_blank">Hintonburg Public House</a> burger is an embodiment of the hard work, painfully-wrought school of thought, a northern outpost of Brooklyn mastercraft. Everything is house made. Everything took a long time to do. <br />
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The HPH is a flagship for the encoolification of the district for which its named. It embodies the neighbourhood in every way: the furniture is reclaimed, plates and cutlery are scrounged antiques, and the menu is casual with a twist. Its cool vibe, good food, local brews on tap and forgiving pricing has made it an instant hit, such that the wife and I have tried three times to eat there to no avail. Rather than eat with the cool kids, we decided to go early bird to beat the rush so I could finally sink my teeth into their famous burger.<br />
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What is this cool cat? It's a beef patty with Russian dressing, thick-cut smoky bacon, grilled onions and pickles on a white bun. This is a new burger, recently added to the menu and replacing previous incarnations that were somewhat more controversial. There are lots of bits and bytes on the Internet debating the merits and drawbacks of the former burger with pickled vegetables on them. <br />
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Is this new offering any good? Read more to find out.<br />
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<b>The burger</b><br />
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The patty is around five-six ounces of beef, well seasoned with a moderate crust. I'm not sure where they procure their meat and the server - staffed alone with eight tables and more bar patrons - was too busy for me to be comfortable asking. The grind is medium - definitely a firmly-formed patty but not uniform in texture. It was very gourmet tasting and remained together as one burrowed into it. The chef cooked medium well, so there were still traces of pink in there waiting for me. Juice levels were enjoyable without leaving grease on the palate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FJ4KC8B2SfU/T7UOhJSVuhI/AAAAAAAAATY/0dqeQxjvnXI/s1600/IMG_20120515_174148_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FJ4KC8B2SfU/T7UOhJSVuhI/AAAAAAAAATY/0dqeQxjvnXI/s400/IMG_20120515_174148_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice, thick patty with beautiful imperfections.</td></tr>
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I sincerely enjoyed the bacon when it actually stayed put. Each slab was a good two millimeters thick and it was cooked until it was quite firm, so it often tried to escape my grasp (foolish bacon! get in my mouth!). The issue would probably be resolved if the pieces were a bit longer so as to offer more grasping opportunity. Nonetheless it gave an excellent dose of salt and smokiness that lent itself well to the burger. I particularly enjoyed its firm, protein-forward texture with such a juicy patty.<br />
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"Russian dressing" is an American peculiarity of mayo, ketchup and creamed horseradish with some optional spices. They make the first two in house and I didn't detect the sinus-punching piquancy of horseradish, instead it was both peppery and a bit sweet in taste and creamy in texture. It was nice but I would have preferred a bit more kapow! It worked very well with the bacon in its current form however, and I found the house-made condiment a nice departure from the ordinary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FdIw4aoAZtI/T7UOiG2FHfI/AAAAAAAAATg/55LKhCiUoMQ/s1600/IMG_20120515_174211_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FdIw4aoAZtI/T7UOiG2FHfI/AAAAAAAAATg/55LKhCiUoMQ/s400/IMG_20120515_174211_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old-fashioned burger on an old-fashioned plate.</td></tr>
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The burger was rounded out by thin slices of pickles and fried onions. They were the scarf of the outfit. What I appreciated was how precious few tricks there were with the burger, no attempts to be clever that would stretch it conceptually away from the style of the resto and the other menu items. I also really appreciated the lack of cheese.<br />
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The bun was baked in-house with a soft crumb and mysteriously fluffy crust as well. It was quite voluminous but squished to nothingness without much effort. While it was sufficiently toasted, I feel that it needed another minute or two in the oven, or at least more steam during baking to crisp up the crust. Bun:meat:topping ratio was prudent and it did a good job of keeping juices and the dressing in check.<br />
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$14 is a good price for this burger, situating it firmly in the mid-end offerings with the likes of Petit Bill's Bistro, and represents good value for money in my opinion. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TSTxUKX5B8/T7UOfyUDgPI/AAAAAAAAATQ/BmYoAx9jnbc/s1600/IMG_20120515_174126_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TSTxUKX5B8/T7UOfyUDgPI/AAAAAAAAATQ/BmYoAx9jnbc/s400/IMG_20120515_174126_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bun would overwhelm the patty were it not so big.</td></tr>
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<b>The sides</b><br />
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Amazing fries! Crisp out, soft in, salted precisely, good quantity. Homemade ketchup is on the sweet side and not spicy enough for my tastes; it resembles more of a glaze than a hearty ketchup. Also they don't bring enough of it.<br />
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EAM8i8yVAMs/T7TW-3S1fBI/AAAAAAAAATE/DYyYT5BKVgU/s1600/HPH.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EAM8i8yVAMs/T7TW-3S1fBI/AAAAAAAAATE/DYyYT5BKVgU/s400/HPH.png" width="400" /></a></div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-90505608981905777002012-05-11T08:06:00.001-04:002012-05-11T08:06:33.931-04:00LAFF Series #2: "The Major" - a burger full of WowThe <a href="http://www.ottawalaff.ca/" target="_blank">Locavore Artisan Food Fair</a> - spring edition is tomorrow and as I promised last month I will be making burgers before and after to highlight some of Ottawa's great artisan food producers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQ8xx1W0Oq8/T6z6GU0aYcI/AAAAAAAAASc/6TIXQqJksBU/s1600/IMG_20120509_180820_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQ8xx1W0Oq8/T6z6GU0aYcI/AAAAAAAAASc/6TIXQqJksBU/s400/IMG_20120509_180820_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This burger is full of said "Wow".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Today's creation highlights <a href="http://www.majorcraigs.ca/" target="_blank">Major Craig's Chutney</a>, 613's premier chutney producer since 2009. Chutney is a condiment, snack or side dish of chopped and stewed fruits and vegetables mixed with spices that must master a balanced flavour profile. The North India chutney is based on a recipe by owner Andrew Craig's great-great grandfather, who developed an appreciation for this delightful meld of flavours while working for the East India Trading Company in the 1880s. Then, he boarded a DeLorean, set his chronometer for 2009 and with a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Back_to_the_Future_trilogy" target="_blank">tizzy of the flux capacitor</a> travelled to the future to bestow his secret recipe to his descendant Andrew. I might not have all the details correct. Needless to say we've all been richer ever since.<br />
<br />
I set out to craft a burger around North India's rich, chunky texture and sweet and spicy balance, and ended up with something fairly conservative. I went right back to Indian food for inspiration and the result is a burger I fondly call "The Major." It's a 125g (4.5oz) lean pork patty with Indian spices, onions and garlic, topped by a slice of caramelized fennel bulb, yogurt and Major Craig's North India chutney on a white bun. It was awesome.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IzkoqCW0mX0/T6z9xDCW7cI/AAAAAAAAASw/C2rap10XOzQ/s1600/IMG_20120509_181937_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IzkoqCW0mX0/T6z9xDCW7cI/AAAAAAAAASw/C2rap10XOzQ/s400/IMG_20120509_181937_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Major at attention</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
You can buy Major Craig's chutney online through their website or at
numerous fine food boutiques across Ottawa. The preferred means of
purchase of course is to come out to the LAFF this weekend.<br />
<br />
<br />
I wasn't surprised at how well the flavours came together. When you're that good, they call you Major.<br />
<br />
Instructions after the break<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>What you'll need </b><br />
<br />
Makes four burgers - you won't need a food processor<br />
<br />
<u>Patty</u><br />
500g lean ground pork<br />
1.5 tsp ground cumin<br />
1.5 tsp ground ginger<br />
1.5 tsp ground turmeric<br />
1.5 tsp chili powder<br />
1/8 vidalia onion, finely diced<br />
1 large clove of garlic, minced<br />
1 egg (only if you use an outdoor grill)<br />
Salt and pepper to taste<br />
<br />
<u>Other</u><br />
1 fresh fennel bulb, stalks removed and sliced length-wise into 1 cm slabs<br />
6 tbsp of Major Craig's North India Chutney, sliced lengthwise (kidding, don't do that)<br />
1 cup Greek-style yogurt<br />
4 buns of firm crust and soft crumb<br />
4 large leaves from a Boston lettuce <br />
2 tbsp olive oil <br />
<br />
Before embarking on your burger, collect one tablespoon of the chutney with a spoon and eat it. Go ahead and eat another. Ensure that you reserve at least one tablespoon per burger before going ahead and eating the rest of the jar.<br />
<br />
For the fennel, you have two choices. First, you can rub the fennel with
the olive oil and fry at medium heat for five minutes a side, until it
develops a deep brown colour and becomes soft to the touch. Essentially
you are looking for the fennel's natural sweetness to be released
without losing its characteristic freshness. If you so choose, you can
rub the slices in olive oil and roast in the oven for 30-40m at 400 F,
or until they turn that rich brown colour.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JnvmZBryAMU/T6z50PrbSjI/AAAAAAAAASM/TU1AUWBO-Nc/s1600/IMG_20120509_174454_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JnvmZBryAMU/T6z50PrbSjI/AAAAAAAAASM/TU1AUWBO-Nc/s400/IMG_20120509_174454_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caramelizing fennel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the patty, mix all ingredients well in a bowl and form into four patties. The egg will add cohesion that is necessary for outdoor grills; you can skip it if you're cooking on an indoor griddle. Keep a light hand on the salt; the other spices are potent and delicious, so only add enough to round out the flavour. Ground pork should be cooked through and despite being lean there will be more than enough fat to keep the patty moist when grilling to well-done. Budget about seven minutes per side on medium-high heat. The turmeric will lend the meat its famous yellow hue, but you'll still be able to spot the tell-tale signs of pink signalling that the piggy isn't quite done.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3b2o7Pjfs_4/T6z9_ic-9-I/AAAAAAAAAS4/7-t8eE1eDVY/s1600/IMG_20120509_180154_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3b2o7Pjfs_4/T6z9_ic-9-I/AAAAAAAAAS4/7-t8eE1eDVY/s400/IMG_20120509_180154_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My onion chunks were large because I was lazy.<br />Please do as I write, not as I did.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
When constructing the burger don't skimp on the yogurt; it lends a cool creaminess that accents the spice of the burger well. Don't even think of substituting it for anything savoury; this dish stays away from heavily salty flavours. I served it alongside a light side salad.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Construction</b><br />
<br />
Bun top<br />
Boston lettuce<br />
Chutney<br />
Fennel<br />
Patty<br />
Yogurt<br />
Bun bottom <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UOGGPTeN3JQ/T6z6Z9cFfMI/AAAAAAAAASk/NqS3ADjfVQQ/s1600/IMG_20120509_181902_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UOGGPTeN3JQ/T6z6Z9cFfMI/AAAAAAAAASk/NqS3ADjfVQQ/s400/IMG_20120509_181902_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Major in his casuals.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-9596236781611684662012-05-07T15:44:00.003-04:002012-05-07T15:48:40.401-04:00At Harvey's with my dadIt took me about three posts worth of content before I started telling folks around the office that I was writing a blog about burgers. The ideas was met with great appreciation and now I count several colleagues as loyal readers. My bosses up the chain know too, coming for advice on a Friday about where they should go for burgers on the weekend. One even offered up a parable that inspired this post.<br />
<br />
Like many parents, he takes his daughter periodically to McDonald's as a treat and she really enjoys it. A few months ago they found themselves in the west end near a <a href="http://harveys.ca/" target="_blank">Harvey's</a> and rather than drive around to find the nearest McDonald's. He bought her a burger, she took one bite, and firmly declared that she never wanted to go to McDonald's again. After relating this story to a few friends of mine, each had reminisced about the same experience that they had with their fathers. Was I tapping into a special central Canadian tradition?<br />
<br />
<br />
My father used to take me to Harvey's as a child as well. We would go to the slightly ramshackle location at the corner (apex?) of Baseline and Merivale, which has since been rebuilt, and scarf down a burger and onion rings, eating inside on those ridiculous swivel-chairs because dad's <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MG_MGB" target="_blank">MGB </a>was too low for drive-in windows. Needless to say I had the same reaction twenty-something years ago than my boss' daughter had: 1) I couldn't understand why other chains wouldn't let you order your own toppings, and 2) while the toys were all well and good I preferred eating the better burger. Looking back, that realization was clear step towards adulthood. On our epic roadtrips through the US I would always pine for Harvey's and feel a bit sorry for my American cousins for not having access to this wonderful place. Eventually I grew up, became a yuppie food snob and turned my nose up at fast food offerings.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90Le1MQH2ic/T6ge5sNXgGI/AAAAAAAAARo/fJkG6qhAb7Y/s1600/IMG_20120505_124909_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90Le1MQH2ic/T6ge5sNXgGI/AAAAAAAAARo/fJkG6qhAb7Y/s400/IMG_20120505_124909_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the better looking burgers from a fast food joint. Look, real bread!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Founded in 1959 in Richmond Hill, Ontario, the chain quickly expanded
in the face of heavy competition until it was purchased by Cara Food
Operations, an air and rail catering company, in 1977. Today there are
about three hundred location of Harvey's and they are clustered almost
entirely in eastern and central Canada. Typical of the GTA, the original location was demolished to build condos. Locations are scattered across Ottawa, in both urban and suburban communities. Dad and I lunched at the location on Bank and Riverside.<br />
<br />
Harvey's is similar to Five Guys in the sense that there are few gimmicks and the customer chooses their desired toppings. The chain offers a regular burger - single or double - a premium "Great Canadian Burger" (GCB), chicken burger, veggie burger and hot dog. Seeing as I'm a pretty great Canadian, I opted for the premium option with a side of onion rings.<br />
<br />
Did it meet my unreasonably high, childhood-reminiscing expectations? Read on after the break.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The GCB is 126g (4 1/2 oz) of ground beef, over 50% larger than their original burger. Harvey's cooks their burger well-done on a flame grill rather than a flat griddle; char and crust are more prominent than competing fast food offerings as a result but don't measure up to a good outdoor grill. The meat is pleasantly juicy without the intense greasiness of Five Guys, well seasoned but not teeming with flavour. A close examination of the patty clearly reveals a medium grind of the beef rather than typical fast food uniformity. That said, it's pressed into a mold so firm as to lose the sense of authenticity the meat could have, which I view as a wasted opportunity.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gw7TqLbzo1w/T6ge6IQH0yI/AAAAAAAAARw/PGzDjZo6UZ8/s1600/IMG_20120505_124913_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gw7TqLbzo1w/T6ge6IQH0yI/AAAAAAAAARw/PGzDjZo6UZ8/s400/IMG_20120505_124913_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of the meat reveals char and grinding strands, both good signs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Harvey's centers their marketing around having the burger topped to order, a process that leads their customer experience to be more time-consuming than the instantaneousness of others. Cheese and bacon are selected at the cash when ordering and are extra; the others are free and selected after payment. Don't expect to be overwhelmed by choices or anything; you're looking at lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions, hot peppers, relish and a few condiments. They tend to skimp on quantity by default so you have to specify how much you want. I felt like asking for 27 onion slivers and exactly 14g of relish, but I refrained in order to convince my father that his son is not a hoser. I had lettuce, two slices of half-sour pickles, hot peppers and barbeque sauce. They were... toppings. Largely out of someone else's jar, the toppings were adequate, fairly sparse, and tasted like grocery store brand.<br />
<br />
If I may wield a baseball metaphor for a moment, the bun was a solid triple. It's the kind of play that you clap your hands loudly, maybe give a good "Yeah!" but don't get out of your chair for (it's a metaphor - I didn't do any of these things literally). The GCB comes on a "bistro bun," a flour-dusted bun with a reasonably firm crust and lightly-toasted crumb. It was way better than any other fast food bun I've ever tried, beating most diner buns as well. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XEnKALMxy3k/T6ge7sHJwAI/AAAAAAAAASA/g9VpjEjdFCE/s1600/IMG_20120505_124935_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XEnKALMxy3k/T6ge7sHJwAI/AAAAAAAAASA/g9VpjEjdFCE/s400/IMG_20120505_124935_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My dad folded the foil over for the marketing shot. A consummate businessman, my pa.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I opted for the burger/drink/side combo, which was $7.49; this is very good value for what you get. Let's not forget that this is fast food and I recommend that you limit its intake in your diet because the sodium, cholesterol and fat in there is for some reason way higher than a well-made restaurant burger or something you can scratch together at home.<br />
<br />
My dad took a few bites and grinned a bit. He said "You know, this is a good burger," in his traditionally authoritative fashion and, being the good son I am I nodded in agreement. Canada has its own Five Guys-esque phenomenon and quite frankly it's better.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gnCXACoKZgM/T6ge6yWsC0I/AAAAAAAAAR4/li00nFZs7cU/s1600/IMG_20120505_124918_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gnCXACoKZgM/T6ge6yWsC0I/AAAAAAAAAR4/li00nFZs7cU/s400/IMG_20120505_124918_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The burger is big, delicious, unpretentious and a little boring. Like Canada.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<u>Note to Americans:</u> Harvey's has nothing to do with Hardee's despite the similarity in marketing.<br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
With fast food onion rings you either get onions or rings, not both. It's pretty lame. Harvey's has "rings", ie deliciously battered and deep-fried former remnants of what once was the noble allium. The batter is brown, crispy and soft on the inside, but the lack of actual onion makes this little more than tempura'd air.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OqbPcER6fWo/T6ewh6Wm0XI/AAAAAAAAARc/46p3ELUbC5E/s1600/Harveys.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OqbPcER6fWo/T6ewh6Wm0XI/AAAAAAAAARc/46p3ELUbC5E/s400/Harveys.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-52867949669266357942012-05-03T11:56:00.002-04:002012-05-03T11:56:53.061-04:00Come on to My House, Cafe My HouseI consider myself to be somewhat of a Renaissance burgeratus, an open-minded omnivore looking to any form of protein, fruit or vegetable to form me a patty that may be consumed burgeresque. Orthodox carnivores may scoff at my ideology, but I say to them: cannot the simple soybean be magically transformed into cakes of firm, moist protein? Can this cake not be cooked well? <br />
<br />
The simple truth is this: most veggie burgers are as boring and bland as most meat burgers. Most restaurants that carry veggie burgers don't make it themselves and serve you frozen boxed stuff of middling quality. A good veggie burger is not easy to make because while good meat stands on its own, veggie burgers need extra prep and coaxing to become something above the ordinary. Coupled with the fact that vegetarians are ultimately a minority and you can see why most pub cooks serve up the frozen stuff. As a result, one of my missions with the blog was to highlight some of the best veggie burgers. As it happens I found one in Ottawa.<br />
<br />
I don't think that many Ottawans would expect that Bank St. south near Alta Vista would be the home of one of the city's finest vegan eateries, but lo, <a href="http://www.cafemyhouse.com/" target="_blank">Cafe My House</a> (1729 Bank) is comfortably nestled in the land of strip malls and Middle Eastern bakeries. This neighbourhood is where urban design went to die, a shadowy world of anti-retail where the road is elevated above the outlets so as to try and make you forget them, and drivers are coaxed into believing that the strip of road is actually a highway, so when you stop and turn into a parking lot the guy behind you slams on his brakes.<br />
<br />
I put up with this schlock of urbanity to try Cafe My House's vegan <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempeh" target="_blank">tempeh</a> cheeseburger (VTC), owner Briana Kim's killer app to get avowed meatatarians to try something sans death for once. She is a delightful woman completely committed to offering her oft repeat customers a fresh, healthy and complete vegan culinary experience regardless of what kind of -vore they are. Wanting to get a vegan burger up on the blog sooner than later, I headed
out for a quick business lunch to grab a VTC to go, but not before
having a chat with Briana about what goes into the perfect veggie
burger.<br />
<br />
Turns out, it's a lot. An incredible amount of thought has gone into the flavour and texture profile of this burger, enough to rival some of Ottawa's top tier. Will a bright light out of retail Mordor emerge as one of Mike Likes Burgers' top picks?<br />
<br />
Keep reading after the break to find out.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty is a grilled, inch-thick slab of marinated tempeh with crushed, toasted cashews mixed in. It has a firm, meaty texture reminiscent of very soft chicken (sorry vegans, have to compare!) without any residual flavourless liquid that terrifies ominovores that have eaten poorly-made tofu. It takes an hours-long bath in a marinade of orange, leek, sweet onion, tamari, kelp and other flavours I won't give away. While salt is the predominant flavour of the marinade it is well balanced by the sweetness of the grilled onion medley. The flavours are harmonious and are obviously the product of hundreds of iterations to reach this level of balance. What impressed me was despite all of the other flavours of the burger, the patty stood out as the focal point.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ks6upVIa7wI/T6KkKP_imyI/AAAAAAAAARI/k5JHI0adH6s/s1600/IMG_20120501_115153_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ks6upVIa7wI/T6KkKP_imyI/AAAAAAAAARI/k5JHI0adH6s/s400/IMG_20120501_115153_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A peek of the patty underneath the gravy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Braised kale is a lovely, healthy topping that is piled on in good quantity, offering a soft, rich texture and adding a vivid green to an otherwise pretty brown burger. Unfortunately it's tucked under the patty does not reach its fullest visual impact. Shittake mushrooms top it off, grilled tender and full of flavour. The tomato is lost amidst the torrential flavours of its neighbours on all accounts and can be forgotten.<br />
<br />
<br />
As you can see from the pictures, the VTC is generously smothered in brown rice miso gravy. I enjoy miso gravies despite their tendency to be heavily salty, but not in this case. The gravy is well-balanced, rich and silky in texture but still allows the palate to identify the other parts of the burger. A big plus for take-out: unlike meat gravy does not congeal as it cools, so it's not a globulous ugly mess when you get back to the office. Also it is not as runny as one would expect, so you don't end up losing half of it to the post-consumer recycled paper take-out container.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-10BAVhp40XQ/T6KkI38DGpI/AAAAAAAAARA/U1PErsehxTo/s1600/IMG_20120501_115149_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-10BAVhp40XQ/T6KkI38DGpI/AAAAAAAAARA/U1PErsehxTo/s400/IMG_20120501_115149_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cascade of Daiya and miso gravy; surprisingly not as runny as it looks.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Atop the gravy is a generous helping of <a href="http://www.daiyafoods.com/our-products/cheddar" target="_blank">Daiya cheddar</a>, a vegan cheese made from basically the entire cuisine of the Caribbean. It's a peculiar but tasty mix of cassava, arrowroot, yeast, pea protein, annatto and other wonderful ingredients. Daiya is taking the vegan world by storm as it has a vastly better taste and texture than its competitors. While certainly not having the acidic complexity of a well-made aged cheddar, it is a suitable substitute and does provide enough salt and sharpness to convince your palate that it's cheese-esque. I laud Daiya for its achievement. It does prove the old adage of "better living through chemistry." <br />
<br />
The bun is a significant, flavourful whole wheat and multi-seed bread bun. It wasn't the freshest bun I've had and provided unnecessary resistance to chew, but it does a satisfactory job of absorbing the significant moisture. You'll still want a paper towel in hand though. The burger has great bun/tempeh/topping ratio.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fZNvnndgQJw/T6KkK3kC4nI/AAAAAAAAARQ/UAAwQBksPZY/s1600/IMG_20120501_115157_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fZNvnndgQJw/T6KkK3kC4nI/AAAAAAAAARQ/UAAwQBksPZY/s400/IMG_20120501_115157_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bun looked healthier than a gymnast in a juice bar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Overall, the burger was a sumptuous experience that left me full and happy, and without any lethargy resulting from the sizeable meal. For $14.95 after tax it was excellent value. Taken individually nothing in the burger was expensive, but the value is achieved given the amount of thought and work needed to execute the recipe. I give Briana and the staff of Cafe My House enormous kudos for casting aside the average and shooting for the magnificent. <br />
<br />
The only thing keeping this burger from complete vegan perfection is texture. Each bite is earthy, salty and umami, but I feel it would benefit hugely from some crunch or crispiness. I fixed that though (see below).<br />
<br />
I expect to like this burger, but I didn't expect that I would like it as much as I did. So please go. I don't care if your thought of dinner is three different meats; you can close your eyes and pretend that tempeh comes from the meat of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ahool" target="_blank">rare Indonesian ahool</a>. Brave Bank St. South and its stupidity for this. It is <u>so</u> worth it. It's in my top three so far, and easily the best veggie burger I have ever eaten.<br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
The burger came with a side of vegan slaw, which is like any other slaw but with a little (too little) vegan dressing. On its own it was kind of meh; a reasonable selection of shredded fresh veggies but with an overwhelming amount of dill. Where it shone was actually with the burger. I eventually "fixed" my few issues with the burger by just dumping the slaw on the patty. <br />
<br />
<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-28136537632258731382012-05-01T13:52:00.003-04:002012-05-01T13:55:49.076-04:00The Five Guys Phenomenon in CanadaFast food didn't become what it has become overnight. Once upon a time there were ma and pa burger and fry joints dotting North America, where families made an honest living out of cheap eats for their community, and took pride in maintaining a certain level of quality. Now we have centralized cooking facilities, heat lamps, cost optimization procedures, pink slime, and salads more unhealthy than double burgers. The big boys swallowed ma and pa. Diners became cutesy themed restaurants or survivalist holes in the walls. In 1986, four brothers from the Metro DC area opened an old-fashioned burger and fry joint going completely against national business trends and immediately gained success. They incorporated and in 2003, began to franchise.<br />
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The <a href="http://fiveguys.ca/en" target="_blank">Five Guys Burgers and Fries</a> that exists now is big. Really big. They opened 200 locations in 2011 alone and are set to open the same in 2012, putting them at over 1,000 locations overall. They are the fast food phenomenon of today much like Subway was in the early 1990s, built on simplicity and a fierce dedication to saturated fat.<br />
<br />
Since I started Mike Likes Burgers I have had countless requests for a Five Guys review, and quiet, aghast challenges to my legitimacy as a member of the burgerati when discovered that I haven't been there yet.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UpFPG08nUKU/T6AS9vLwfzI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/qhXCSKCsrRM/s1600/IMG_20120428_123131_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UpFPG08nUKU/T6AS9vLwfzI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/qhXCSKCsrRM/s400/IMG_20120428_123131_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Immediately looks better than most fast food.</td></tr>
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The only difference between Five Guys and their competitors is that they aren't selling you anything innovative; in fact, what they are doing is the opposite of innovation, because Five Guys is a hearkening back to fast food before it got creepy. There are no gimmick products, just a burger with bacon and/or cheese, hot dog, veggie sandwich or a grilled cheese. Toppings are to order from a good-sized list, Sides include french fries and... french fries. Decor includes bags of potatoes and jugs of peanut oil. It's a 21st century spin on a drive-up with a level of authenticity and <i>joie de vivre</i> that some of its older competitors such as A&W should have, but don't.<br />
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<br />
Ordering a regular burger means you'll get two patties while a "little" burger nets you one. Patties are fried in their own considerable fat in the exposed kitchen and it's implied that you should watch the show. The restaurant is unabashed about how tremendously unhealthy these burgers are and so be it.<br />
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I ordered a cheeseburger topped with grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, tomatoes and barbeque sauce. The location was on Greenbank north of Strandherd. So what did I think? Find out after the break.<br />
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<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>The Burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty is a 3oz all-beef patty ground finely. It's soft and juicy with little to no char, cooked on a flat surface in its own fat. It's greasy and meaty and tender, real diner chow bereft of that defrosted dryness common to fast food burgers. The burgers are cooked to order so there are no heat lamps sucking the love out of your meat. Seasoning is moderate and not overwhelming; there are certain no visible spice flecks on the meat. To be honest it tastes fundamentally unhealthy, like a washing machine of fat and salt, but there is something biochemically satisfying about that. A "regular" burger comes with two patties stacked on one another, making for a real mouthful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v4uwP_CdpDo/T6ATBg4PsbI/AAAAAAAAAQo/p8eETWpsJK0/s1600/IMG_20120428_123315_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v4uwP_CdpDo/T6ATBg4PsbI/AAAAAAAAAQo/p8eETWpsJK0/s400/IMG_20120428_123315_Hagrid.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greasy beefy close-up.</td></tr>
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<br />
The bun is above average fast food fare, with an egginess that's approaching challah and a light toast to it. The restaurant almost dares you to pack on the toppings, and the bun seems more than adequate for this challenge, firmly cupping the two-pattied burger and its accoutrements. A solid win for a fast food outlet.<br />
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<br />
What about toppings? You give your toppings at order. It's not exactly an adventurous list, with the standard condiments and standard garnishings. I found the grilled mushrooms and onions to be great options, definitely lifting this burger over much of the competition. The mushroom slices are large, tender and substantial, well cooked and tucked underneath the patty. The onions were grilled until sweet although not caramelized as there isn't time for that magic to happen. Barbeque sauce was bottled stuff that was fine for adding pungency but nothing spectacular. You can order your burger with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A1_sauce" target="_blank">A1 Sauce</a> if you feel like pretending that it's the 1920s. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rywpNpJIW7Q/T6ATAS4y6PI/AAAAAAAAAQg/HI2r6zI5DlA/s1600/IMG_20120428_123311_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rywpNpJIW7Q/T6ATAS4y6PI/AAAAAAAAAQg/HI2r6zI5DlA/s400/IMG_20120428_123311_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's BBQ sauce, not toastification.</td></tr>
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The regular burger was $7.50, which is reasonable for what you receive, but will eliminate that 1920's feeling no matter how much A1 you get. For Ottawans there is a problem however. The only Five Guys within the Greenbelt is at Train Yards; the other locations are spread throughout the suburbs. Living in Centretown, I can pay about that much and have a better, healthier, local burger at Hintonburger. Probably the top fast food burger choice for suburbanites however. <br />
<br />
Overall, the burger was delicious, but it is fast food and I certainly
can't recommend going very often. It certainly won't make you feel
healthy and lively afterwards.If you are going to eat there, go soon. I am hopeful that a company on that significant a growth track can keep its quality assurance up to snuff before cost optimization procedures start to sneak in from corporate suits.<br />
<br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
<br />
<br />
Oh the fries. I have spoken to numerous people about Five guys' fries and they certainly conjure strong opinions one way or another. They are very different than most fast food options; sport a thicker cut with skins on more reminiscent of a chip truck. Five Guys barely salts their fries so unless you salt yourself you might find them blander than others, but I found it a real treat to actually taste potato. They aren't particularly crispy; the primary texture is quite soft. You can order them "cajun-style" or regular. I opted for the former and it came well dusted in with a spice mix overwhelmed by chili powder but still relatively unsalted. Fry portions are enormous, and they cost extra.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9qMw5bvK6P4/T6AS_WKOq6I/AAAAAAAAAQY/6mbRNwVvxdo/s1600/IMG_20120428_123159_Hagrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9qMw5bvK6P4/T6AS_WKOq6I/AAAAAAAAAQY/6mbRNwVvxdo/s400/IMG_20120428_123159_Hagrid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burger sunning itself next to fries.</td></tr>
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
<br />
A note on complexity: since you can request any number of combinations from them, I've given an average complexity. I suppose if you put everything on it you'd have a complexity of 3, but since there aren't any concept burgers I won't accept a 4. <br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-54841949945318189532012-04-29T17:05:00.001-04:002012-04-29T17:05:26.644-04:00LAFF Series #1: The Morsel BurgerAs I mentioned in <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/loving-local-on-may-12.html" target="_blank">one of my previous posts</a>, I am taking the opportunity to promote the upcoming <a href="http://www.ottawalaff.ca/Home.html" target="_blank">Locavore Artisan Food Fair</a> by crafting some burgers that showcase some of the delicious offerings of the LAFF vendors. I won't be able to get all of the vendors in before May 12, but I figured that the local love should continue afterward as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X8qu7qH3zPk/T52pst0XNyI/AAAAAAAAAOw/8c3cG3jvD2E/s1600/Morsel1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X8qu7qH3zPk/T52pst0XNyI/AAAAAAAAAOw/8c3cG3jvD2E/s400/Morsel1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It arrived by stork.</td></tr>
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The first burger up is the Morsel Burger, named after <a href="http://www.morseldesserts.ca/" target="_blank">Morsel Specialty Dessert Catering</a>. Morsel only recently burst onto Ottawa's dessert scene. Owner and baker Robin recently returned from years of travelling the world with her partner, gathering some incredible culinary intelligence along the way. That said, she is as proficient with her more down-home traditional recipes than the exotic ones. So when a freshly baked large zucchini loaf arrived at my door wrapped like a bouquet of flowers, I was overjoyed. Even before making the burger I sampled a "modestly" sized piece. Moderately sweet, moist and full of flavour it was baking excellence in every bite.<br />
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The burger was a chicken burger with zucchini pesto, tomato, and sauteed shiitake mushrooms on two slices of Morsel's zucchini bread. It is a careful balance of sweet and savoury flavours. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h01OiSrQt6w/T52p6oGSBwI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/0VJ1VbObkGk/s1600/Morsel5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h01OiSrQt6w/T52p6oGSBwI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/0VJ1VbObkGk/s400/Morsel5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It tastes as good as it looks.</td></tr>
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Figuring a dessert into a savoury burger was somewhat of a challenge and I have to admit only partially successful. Every foodie fails to achieve their vision from time to time; and while I certainly can't say that the Morsel Burger was a failure - the results were <b>delicious </b>- I will offer some lessons learned in my instructions after the break. <br />
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Keep reading!<br />
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<br />
<a name='more'></a><b>What you'll need</b><br />
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Makes four burgers with a bit of leftover pesto - you'll need a food processor for this recipe<br />
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<u>Patty:</u><br />
4 chicken thighs, boneless and skinless<br />
3 green onions, dark green parts removed, chopped finely<br />
1 egg<br />
Salt and pepper to season <br />
<br />
<u>Zucchini pesto:</u><br />
1 medium zucchini, sliced into rings <br />
150g raw cashews, toasted until browned (don't buy toasted cashews if they are covered in oil - buy them raw and toast them yourself)<br />
1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil (you eat the pesto raw, so the quality of the EVOO shows)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFzSTvH0zFI/T52pzxJC57I/AAAAAAAAAPA/VkB1wDi00ko/s1600/Morsel3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFzSTvH0zFI/T52pzxJC57I/AAAAAAAAAPA/VkB1wDi00ko/s320/Morsel3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blurs the line between bread, cakes and vegetables</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
1/3 cup packed fresh basil leaves, picked from their stems<br />
1/4 cup shredded parmigiano reggiano (or substitutes like grana padano) <br />
<br />
<u>Other:</u><br />
1 loaf of Morsel's zucchini bread (you only need 2 slices per burger, but you'll want to eat the rest of it)<br />
1 beefsteak tomato, cut into thick slices<br />
20 shiitake mushrooms<br />
1 tbsp butter<br />
<br />
<b>Patty</b><br />
<br />
You can find the recipe for <a href="http://mikelikesburgers.blogspot.ca/2012/04/serious-chicken-burgers.html" target="_blank">my chicken thigh patties here</a>. The only difference is that the garlic is removed, because it would combat the sweeter profile of this burger.<br />
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Make sure when you place the patty on the bread that as little liquid fat as possible comes with it. <br />
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<b>Pesto</b><br />
<br />
The zucchini pesto is straightforward to make with a food processor, but the best way to make it is <u>not</u> to put all the ingredients and blend away. Instead, put the zucchini, basil and cheese in, pulse about 10 times until you have a medium chopped consistency. Slowly add the oil and cashews, alternating between both, until it becomes mostly smooth. I say mostly because there may be some small nutty bits that linger, but that just gives the mixture a good texture. Don't salt the pesto.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YNTW1Ck0ckA/T52pwW5bEbI/AAAAAAAAAO4/uWXCH8crcRo/s1600/Morsel2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YNTW1Ck0ckA/T52pwW5bEbI/AAAAAAAAAO4/uWXCH8crcRo/s400/Morsel2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You'll have leftovers, unless you just dig in with a spoon.</td></tr>
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Ideally your flavour profile will be sweet, nutty and fruity. The only balance to the sweetness comes from the cheese, which also gives it nuttiness. You can use other nuts of course; almonds and pecans will offer sweetness as well. Promise me that if you experiment you'll inform me of the results!<br />
<br />
<b>Other</b><br />
<br />
For the mushrooms, melt 1 tbsp butter in a pan and sauté for five minutes on a medium-high heat until they are a rich brown. Carefully remove them from the butter with a slotted spoon; you want to keep residual butter to a minimum. "But why?" you ask, "I love butter!" Well kind reader, here's why.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I4oLsYSRGEs/T52p-9IUheI/AAAAAAAAAPY/hveqgmg-9hA/s1600/Morsel6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I4oLsYSRGEs/T52p-9IUheI/AAAAAAAAAPY/hveqgmg-9hA/s400/Morsel6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You have to admit, it's a good looking burger</td></tr>
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Morsel's delicious zucchini loaf is wonderfully moist. This allows it to stay fresh for days after, but unfortunately means that if you allow a significant amount of moisture from the burgers and toppings to seep into the bread, it will quickly disintegrate into a zucchini-tinged mess. You have two choices then: eat it open-faced with a fork and knife, or keep your excess moisture to a minimum.<br />
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In hindsight the zucchini bread would have been a perfect platform for a veggie burger, which is often lower in moisture.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
<br />
Zucchini bread<br />
Mushrooms<br />
Pesto<br />
Tomato slice<br />
Patty<br />
Pesto<br />
Zucchini bread<br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2TSaDXwJ9s8/T52p3FuPStI/AAAAAAAAAPI/e12P6MNFdmE/s1600/Morsel4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2TSaDXwJ9s8/T52p3FuPStI/AAAAAAAAAPI/e12P6MNFdmE/s400/Morsel4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Might have sliced them a bit thick...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4409831684387731042.post-37097677473143460722012-04-26T11:19:00.001-04:002012-04-26T11:20:23.328-04:00A Taste for Burgers: Burgers on Main (Somerset)A Taste for Life is an annual event where an ever-growing group of restaurants will donate 25% of each diner's food and alcohol bill to HIV/AIDS charities across Canada. <a href="http://www.atasteforlife.org/_cms/index.php?ottawa" target="_blank">For Ottawa's event</a>, proceeds went to two incredible charities, <a href="http://www.brucehouse.org/" target="_blank">Bruce House</a> and the <a href="http://www.snowyowl.org/en/index.spy" target="_blank">Snowy Owl Foundation</a>. Both of these charities and their volunteers work tirelessly to help Ottawans living with HIV/AIDS and rely on events like a Taste for Life for support. You can tell that our community is supporting this worthy effort because restaurants this year were packed. If you missed it this year, definitely participate next year, and remember to book ahead because seats went quickly.<br />
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On this occasion, Amy and I took the opportunity to join in the fun and choose a spot I've been eyeing for months now: the downtown Ottawa location of<a href="http://www.burgersonmain.com/" target="_blank"> Burgers on Main</a>. <br />
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Located on 343 Somerset, just east of Bank Street, BOM is situated in a lovely heritage home that was the former location of the ill-fated second iteration of Friday's Roast Beef House. Considering that my meal at Friday's was the worst I have ever had in Ottawa since I grew teeth, even if these burgers were horribly charred slabs of wood they would be an improvement over what existed prior. Thankfully, not only was my burger good, it was very good.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ICFZ0oS1B4z2uvOKWN1l7ZT3f1bT_CHsWA1Yc_pKQCbo5a0TDanHcUxfPtlPGaeSppwg7i3u2vzMajFzroTLD0tCPCU7IQWFOEtNzHwbTmWnmx7_I-KGaDhpEXkP6wBlK3yguPMWRzPM/s1600/BOM3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ICFZ0oS1B4z2uvOKWN1l7ZT3f1bT_CHsWA1Yc_pKQCbo5a0TDanHcUxfPtlPGaeSppwg7i3u2vzMajFzroTLD0tCPCU7IQWFOEtNzHwbTmWnmx7_I-KGaDhpEXkP6wBlK3yguPMWRzPM/s400/BOM3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Main of the House</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Opening a downtown location, especially one on a street that has been challenged by restaurant turnover lately, must have been gutsy for the Manotick hotspot. The decor is a random assortment of 50's memorabilia, heritage home and steakhouse, but quite frankly I didn't care in the least. It's a burger joint after all.<br />
<br />
BOM features a pretty simple burger selection; there are a few interesting choices but nothing terribly exotic. I could have opted for something with brie and red onion marmalade for instance but instead I went with the "Smoked House Burger" featuring housemade barbeque sauce, bacon and aged cheddar on a multiseed bun.<br />
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How did it fare? Check it out after the break.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>The burger</b><br />
<br />
The patty was an 8oz all-beef patty sourced from the <a href="http://www.manotickvillagebutcher.com/" target="_blank">Manotick Village Butcher</a>, which in turn sources from prominent local cattle ranchers such as O'Briens, Alpenblick and Shima's. It was flat and wide and cooked medium-well to well done. The menu stated that burgers are cooked medium by default, but there were precious few traces of pink in the centre, likely because the house was teeming with patrons. That didn't stop it from being moist and juicy. The crust of the patty had adequate char, and the inside had a fine, uniform grind. Seasoning was sufficient and highlighted the meat well without being obtrusive.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xuBWtUdLvzQ/T5lgt2u0gGI/AAAAAAAAAOA/WdNjOO3Rno4/s1600/BOM4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xuBWtUdLvzQ/T5lgt2u0gGI/AAAAAAAAAOA/WdNjOO3Rno4/s400/BOM4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patty close-up. Not suitable for minors.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
"Balanced" is definitely the word to describe this burger. While the barbeque sauce was sweet and pungent, it melded well with the saltiness of the bacon and did not overwhelm the texture of the beef. Their recipe relies on vinegar and smoke, which actually combined nicely to keep the fat in check. The chef wisely excluded placing any additional condiments on the burger, although they do give a little cup of "BOM sauce" on the side to add yourself or use as fry-dip. When asked what exactly BOM sauce was, the waitress explained that it - and I'm paraphrasing here - is an alchemical concoction of essentially every condiment they could find. It tasted like spicier Thousand Island dressing with little relish chunks floating around in it. It matched perfectly with my sweet potato fries.<br />
<br />
The bacon was thick-cut and cooked until a bit chewy. Aged cheddar was nicely slathered on the patty, but was unfortunately a bit overwhelmed by everything else surrounding it. When it was more evident, it had a pleasant bite.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cu7nWi_-46Y/T5lg-LlMHvI/AAAAAAAAAOI/R7Uvzrt79Pc/s1600/BOM2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cu7nWi_-46Y/T5lg-LlMHvI/AAAAAAAAAOI/R7Uvzrt79Pc/s400/BOM2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can tomato be sexy? Yes.</td></tr>
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Other garnishings included shredded <strike>useless</strike> iceberg lettuce and two slices of incredibly sweet, juicy, vibrantly red tomato from Suntech hydroponic farms. It was one of the rare times that I loved tomato on a restaurant burger because its sweet, acidic juices gently flavoured everything and tempered the sauce's more intense qualities. It really was the unexpected performer. <br />
<br />
The bun was the only area that I could suggest a bit of improvement. It was a fresh, superficially-toasted multiseed bun that was soft and bready, and a bit sweet. I would have preferred a bun with a firmer crust given the juiciness of the burger and the additional moisture provided by the tomato and sauce. <br />
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For $13, including fries, pickle and cole slaw, BOM is great burger for great value. That's around what you'll pay at other mid-range burger joints such as The Works, and indeed I overheard patrons comparing the two. It's comparatively little money for a delicious product made with high-quality local ingredients. I hope they can make a lasting go in such a large location.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ls8xiMRimP8/T5lhKqgVe5I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/bpTKbY-NbNo/s1600/BOM1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ls8xiMRimP8/T5lhKqgVe5I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/bpTKbY-NbNo/s400/BOM1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family portrait: Sweet taters, cole slaw, pickle, BOM sauce, His Highness</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b></b><br />
<b>The sides</b><br />
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Pay the $1.50 to upgrade your fries to sweet potato fries because the fries are average but the sweet potato fries are spectacular. They're crispy, fluffy, sweet and without any residual grease. These are <u>crazy good sweet potato fries</u>. Drink-wise, they have a solid beer menu with plenty of locals and a smattering of fine imports. I matched with a <a href="http://www.kbeer.ca/" target="_blank">Kichesippi </a>1855 amber ale because these rockin' local brewers are celebrating their second anniversary this Sunday.<br />
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<b>BurgerDAR</b><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w5vVoI5PMzA/T5lilXpszxI/AAAAAAAAAOk/BNjVId3VB6k/s1600/BOM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w5vVoI5PMzA/T5lilXpszxI/AAAAAAAAAOk/BNjVId3VB6k/s400/BOM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07012605623462300699noreply@blogger.com1